Through a stroke of good fortune, I discovered one of the best kept secrets of Australia's Central Coast - The Rhythm Hut. This one-of-a-kind gem is run by a small staff of dedicated people and instructors who believe in the power of music, rhythm, and art. Rendra, a man immersed in the scenes of the Rhythm Hut, had a passion and a vision to create a drumming school and has since established and nurtured a unique and talented community of drumming enthusiasts.
My first experience at the Rhythm Hut included an intense rehearsal by the Rhythm Hunters , a group of Taiko drummers who perform all over Australia. Their most recent public event was held at the Sydney Opera House! Sitting comfortably on one of the numerous couches at the Hut, I watched wide-eyed as a tri-troop of Rhythm Hunters practiced less than a meter in front of me. Talk about front row seating! My entire body was reverberating with each resounding beat of the drum. The Rhythm Hunters played with such strength and fluidity that showed off years of practice and devotion to drumming. I could hardly wait to grip my own set of bachi drum sticks and try my own hand at Taiko.
The art of Taiko drumming originated in Japan and is recognized widely because of the massive drums and the pronounced rising and falling arc of the arms as players strike their instrument with 16” long bachi sticks. I recalled watching a performance of Japanese Taiko drummers at Universal Studios in Orlando, Florida and remembered being instantly captivated by the power and raw intensity of the percussionists on stage. Years later, I find that the rhythmic force of the Taiko drums is still not only compelling and mesmeric to watch and listen to but has an even more pronounced absorbing effect by becoming the rhythmist myself.
In the two weeks that followed, I have joined both the Taiko and the Djembe drumming classes being held at the Rhythm Hut. While I enjoy Djembe as a way to improve and challenge my mind and immerse myself in a larger group of drummers, there is just something about Taiko drumming that I can’t seem to get enough of. With each dynamic beat, my entire body vibrates with an energizing vigour. The dance, the flow, and the energy of drumming is intensely primal - you feel one with the natural current of life. I’ve learned to be purposeful and resolute when playing accents and rhythms to create a seamless flow of pulsing beats. The rhythmists strive to fuse the sounds of their drum with that of their neighbours to produce a powerful unity and oneness within the group. With each class, I am welcomed into a community filled with all ages, abilities, and races, and the harmony that I feel amongst them is authentic and emotive. And, whether you’ve come to release the tension of the day, drum out any negative emotions, or become one with a group of like-minded friends, I’ve realized one thing: “Whether you are happy, mad, sad, or glad - it always feels good to beat something!”
Friday, March 4
Sunday, February 20
Wild Australia
I have to admit. I was a tad bit nervous about going to Australia. Only a few weeks ago, Queensland was devastated by floods and, shortly there after, ravaged by the menopausal cyclone Yasi. Then, the Aussies of the West Coast experienced horrific bush fires – Mother Nature imploring her wrath without a particularly good excuse. And, never mind the fact that Australia is home to poisonous snakes, deadly spiders, tourist eating crocodiles, and the dreaded blue bottle jellyfish. But, oddly enough, that's not what was putting my nerves on edge. Nope. It was the people. Not the Australians, the foreigners, or the tourists, but rather the simple fact that there are just so MANY people! From what I remember of Sydney, it's got more than its fair share of people strolling between the high rises. And, in New Zealand, the big city life was not something I came across on a regular basis. So, needless to say, I was slightly anxious about stepping into the hustle and bustle of Sydney. However, getting out of my comfort zone is something I've consciously tried to do throughout my travels, and I wasn't about to quit now.
Regretfully, the Aussie television show, “Border Security” wasn't filming the morning I arrived, so instead of being detained, patted down, and cavity searched (with no thanks to Mark McNamara...), I was smoothly ushered through customs by a friendly, neon-blue gum chewing officer and found myself in the land of Oz. Anyone seen my red sparkly shoes?
That very afternoon, I strolled through the city from my hostel down to the Sydney Harbour and surprised myself by feeling quite comfortable amongst the crowded sidewalks and sensory stimulating streets. The sky was overcast, yet, when I reached Circular Quay and found myself within sight of Sydney Opera House, there was nothing that could cloud the elegance of that magnificent structure. It was so calming to walk beneath the tiled peaks of the building with surrounding water and the dark silhouette of the Sydney Harbour Bridge completing the iconic city view. Memories of when I first walked the Opera House steps 10 years ago came rushing back as I climbed the stairs once again. What a beautiful way to be welcomed back to Sydney.
Another happy memory of being an early teen in Sydney was our family outing to the Taronga Zoo. Therefore, a encore visit to Wild Australia was at the top of my Sydney “Must Do” list.
Thankfully, the weather was beautiful for my day at the zoo. I took the ferry across which offered panoramic views of the Sydney skyline, Opera House, and Harbour Bridge. Once I arrived, I made a bee line for Wild Australia to say hello to the local celebrities! The kangaroos and wallabies were just chillin' like villains, the koala was cuddled up on a tree branch enjoying its 23 hour nap time, the emu was ignorantly pecking at its own reflection, and the platypus made out like a magician, disappearing and reappearing in the watery aquarium at its own leisure. Oh, how I've missed these furry, feathery, and leathery creatures.
Interestingly enough, many of the animals featured at the Taronga Zoo are most active at night. So, I decided to follow suit the very next day with a ladies night out at Club TANK with some lovely, dance-crazed woman! We swayed, jumped, and dipped to the beat till the wee hours of the morning, and I have my Couchsurfing friend Aryn to thank for a fabulous night out in the flashing beams of strobe lights.
Aryn was a wonderful host and, having been born in Montana, I didn't expect anything less. We spent our Saturday in the city, exploring The Rocks Market and sweating in the Sydney heat. We decided to cool down with a cold brew from the “Australian.” Besides having over 100 Australian brewed beers to choose from on their menu, they are also known for their gourmet pizzas. In particular, their “Emblem” pizza topped with both kangaroo and emu – one marsupial and one bird featured on the Australian emblem. Unfortunately, the restaurant was fresh out of emu, so Aryn and I substituted with crocodile instead, creating our own personal pie: the “Crocaroo.” A vivid flashback of my mom eating a crocodile burger and me Ewwing at every bite she took crowded my memory. Therefore, my lack of experimentation with foreign food on my last trip to Oz overruled the fact that I'm vegetarian friendly, and I wasn't about to miss out this time around. And wouldn't ya know - kangaroo is a lip smacker! However, that's the last one of Winne the Pooh's friends I'll be snacking on for a while...
Regretfully, the Aussie television show, “Border Security” wasn't filming the morning I arrived, so instead of being detained, patted down, and cavity searched (with no thanks to Mark McNamara...), I was smoothly ushered through customs by a friendly, neon-blue gum chewing officer and found myself in the land of Oz. Anyone seen my red sparkly shoes?
That very afternoon, I strolled through the city from my hostel down to the Sydney Harbour and surprised myself by feeling quite comfortable amongst the crowded sidewalks and sensory stimulating streets. The sky was overcast, yet, when I reached Circular Quay and found myself within sight of Sydney Opera House, there was nothing that could cloud the elegance of that magnificent structure. It was so calming to walk beneath the tiled peaks of the building with surrounding water and the dark silhouette of the Sydney Harbour Bridge completing the iconic city view. Memories of when I first walked the Opera House steps 10 years ago came rushing back as I climbed the stairs once again. What a beautiful way to be welcomed back to Sydney.
Another happy memory of being an early teen in Sydney was our family outing to the Taronga Zoo. Therefore, a encore visit to Wild Australia was at the top of my Sydney “Must Do” list.
Thankfully, the weather was beautiful for my day at the zoo. I took the ferry across which offered panoramic views of the Sydney skyline, Opera House, and Harbour Bridge. Once I arrived, I made a bee line for Wild Australia to say hello to the local celebrities! The kangaroos and wallabies were just chillin' like villains, the koala was cuddled up on a tree branch enjoying its 23 hour nap time, the emu was ignorantly pecking at its own reflection, and the platypus made out like a magician, disappearing and reappearing in the watery aquarium at its own leisure. Oh, how I've missed these furry, feathery, and leathery creatures.
Interestingly enough, many of the animals featured at the Taronga Zoo are most active at night. So, I decided to follow suit the very next day with a ladies night out at Club TANK with some lovely, dance-crazed woman! We swayed, jumped, and dipped to the beat till the wee hours of the morning, and I have my Couchsurfing friend Aryn to thank for a fabulous night out in the flashing beams of strobe lights.
Aryn was a wonderful host and, having been born in Montana, I didn't expect anything less. We spent our Saturday in the city, exploring The Rocks Market and sweating in the Sydney heat. We decided to cool down with a cold brew from the “Australian.” Besides having over 100 Australian brewed beers to choose from on their menu, they are also known for their gourmet pizzas. In particular, their “Emblem” pizza topped with both kangaroo and emu – one marsupial and one bird featured on the Australian emblem. Unfortunately, the restaurant was fresh out of emu, so Aryn and I substituted with crocodile instead, creating our own personal pie: the “Crocaroo.” A vivid flashback of my mom eating a crocodile burger and me Ewwing at every bite she took crowded my memory. Therefore, my lack of experimentation with foreign food on my last trip to Oz overruled the fact that I'm vegetarian friendly, and I wasn't about to miss out this time around. And wouldn't ya know - kangaroo is a lip smacker! However, that's the last one of Winne the Pooh's friends I'll be snacking on for a while...
Tuesday, February 15
GLEEaving Kiwiland
Just one year ago, I landed in a country halfway across the world. Even now, it's hard for me to fully comprehend. I've lived the last 365 days out of a backpack weighing approximately 20 kg. My backpack has been my constant travel companion. She's seen all and heard everything; been zipped and unzipped Lord knows how many times. I imagine that my travel worn clothes have had endless tea parties neatly rolled and tucked snuggly within my green pack, jabbering and talking over one another about the views they saw from atop that one mountain and that fellow traveler they hugged goodbye in hopes of connecting again in another foreign place. Yeah, my backpack and I, we've had one hell of a year! But you know what the best part is? It's not over yet.
I spent my last week in New Zealand reconnecting with some really wonderful traveler friends of mine at Tombstone Backpackers in Picton. Per my request, the lovely Lynne and Gordon agreed to organize a pizza night at the hostel which is just one of the many hundreds of reasons why I love it there. No better way to spend my last weekend in NZ than with friendly faces and delicious eats.
In Christchurch, my final NZ stop, I stayed with Katie and Mark and learned more Aussie slang in last minute preparation for my next destination. (Anyone want to take a guess at what a “bum bag” is?) I also crammed my iPod full of music from GLEE which I found essential for the next leg of my travels. Man! A GLEE playlist and bum bag enlightenment - I am so well prepped for Oz! :-D
But, no matter how much I tried to prepare myself for my eminent departure, the fact that I was leaving just refused to sink in. New Zealand has been my home for the past year, and I've admittedly fallen in love with the Kiwi culture, the land, and its people. But, ready or not, NZ Immigration was gently untangling my tight embrace from its beloved islands. And, like a reluctant child unwilling to leave her mother for preschool, I boarded the plane to Australia. But, as every child soon realizes, the initial heartache of separation soon quiets, and the lure of the sandbox and creative play with friends brings you to a whole new world where new adventures await around every corner.
I spent my last week in New Zealand reconnecting with some really wonderful traveler friends of mine at Tombstone Backpackers in Picton. Per my request, the lovely Lynne and Gordon agreed to organize a pizza night at the hostel which is just one of the many hundreds of reasons why I love it there. No better way to spend my last weekend in NZ than with friendly faces and delicious eats.
In Christchurch, my final NZ stop, I stayed with Katie and Mark and learned more Aussie slang in last minute preparation for my next destination. (Anyone want to take a guess at what a “bum bag” is?) I also crammed my iPod full of music from GLEE which I found essential for the next leg of my travels. Man! A GLEE playlist and bum bag enlightenment - I am so well prepped for Oz! :-D
But, no matter how much I tried to prepare myself for my eminent departure, the fact that I was leaving just refused to sink in. New Zealand has been my home for the past year, and I've admittedly fallen in love with the Kiwi culture, the land, and its people. But, ready or not, NZ Immigration was gently untangling my tight embrace from its beloved islands. And, like a reluctant child unwilling to leave her mother for preschool, I boarded the plane to Australia. But, as every child soon realizes, the initial heartache of separation soon quiets, and the lure of the sandbox and creative play with friends brings you to a whole new world where new adventures await around every corner.
Wednesday, February 9
The Gold Treatment
I wouldn't dub it officially summer without a road trip. And, the best way to venture into the Golden Bay region of the South Island is by car mostly because there are loads of side roads and best-kept-secret spots only a few kilometers from the main road. So, with thoughts of exploration in mind, my friend Lorna and I rented a little car, rolled down the windows, and cranked up the tunes – it was time to cruise!
Our first detour off the main road had me maneuvering our tiny car along an 11km, windy, golden gravel road just barely scraping by the monstrous campervans coming at us from the other direction. But, we were on a mission – to see Harwood's Hole. After careful and successful passage down Canaan Road, a 45 minute walk through a white dusted forest, and a brief scramble over a few well balanced boulders, we found it. A bit hard to miss, this cave is the largest in the southern hemisphere at 400m deep and 70m wide, with a 183m vertical drop! Duly noted, however, was the obvious lack of any form of safety barrier between the boulders we perched on and big ass Hole (no pun intended). It was whooper. The granddaddy of all holes! The big Kahuna!! Okay, you get the picture.
Next, we arrived at the Te Waikoropupu (or Pupu for short) Springs, a sacred area for the native Maori people. This spring bubbled some of the clearest water I've ever seen, and perhaps the clearest in the world according to my Lonely Planet travel guide. Farther up the road, just opposite our camping grounds, is where we visited the Mussel Inn to sample their Freckled Frog Cider, a homemade brew made from an NZ grown fruit the Feijoa. It was delicious!
We spent the next two days tramping around the Farewell Spit and Wharariki Beach, even reaching the highest point of the South Island at Cape Farewell. The beaches and archways carved into the cliffs afforded some incredibly picturesque views – that is when we weren't squinting our eyes, heads bowed to the unrelenting wind that whipped and whirled the fine granules of sand into any welcoming orifice. It wasn't until we were safely sheltered from the brutal blasts of beach weather, that we realized how smooth our skin was. Apparently, all it takes is a few hours battling the elements of the Golden Bay for a free, full-bodied exfoliation. I can see it now:
Come to Golden Bay for the Gold Treatment!
Absolutely FREE!
*Only while weather lasts*
On the last morning of our road trip together, Lorna and I stumbled upon the best beach ever – the beach of Totaranui. Seriously, this place should have a blue “#1” ribbon just to prepare people for it's awesomeness. With golden sands, sapphire seas, and a brilliant yellow orb glowing out of a blue sky, this Abel Tasman National Park gem made us feel like we'd be doing the beach an injustice if we didn't crack open a brew and cheers to a fabulous road trip. Never mind that the time read “10:49AM.” Cheers! :-D
I spent two more days in Golden Bay with a fellow named John who, if I think really, really, really hard, I can remember playing on my mom and dad's softball team back in the 90's. John and his partner Brian were most hospitable, and I very much enjoyed my time with them!
Hitching back to Nelson, I had the good fortune of meeting Patrick, who is best described by his very own words: “an awesome bloke.” When Patrick found out that I didn't yet have a place to stay in Nelson, he offered to let me crash at his place for as long as I wished. As a fellow world backpacker, Patrick was happy to pay-it-forward for all the times he'd been helped out during his travels. And, I was delighted to be on the receiving end of his generous offer! Patrick was on his way back to Golden Bay that afternoon, meaning that I had the house all to myself. And, with only a 10 minute walk to the Tahuna Beach, I was happy as a clam! Two thumbs up for cool people.
I've been in Nelson for a week now and enjoying the benefits of a living in the eco-friendly New Zealand city. Nelson has a lovely city center with heaps of cool shops, coffee houses, and even a cathedral smack dab in the middle. Thus, I've been enjoying a relaxing few days of beach bumming in Tahuna, window shopping, lunching at the local eateries, and strolling the Saturday market with a paper bag full of fresh orchard cherries. I reunited with a Taupo friend of mine, Ivonne, and we've been keeping ourselves entertained by the Busker Street Festival, watching a French man on stilts puppeteer Pandora the human (and female) version of Pinocchio. We also attended the International Kai(*1) Festival which was full of enticing smells from food stands selling international specialties. Here, we participated in a Maori Hui(*2) welcoming us to the Nelson Marae(*3). It was beautifully done with speeches in Maori by the elders and ending with a Hungi(*4). So, if when I next see you, I grasp your hand and pull you in close in order to touch our foreheads and noses, don't be alarmed - you've just experienced a heart warming Hungi from me to you.
Learn a bit of Maori:
(*1) Kai - Maori for “food”
(*2) Hui - a Maori welcoming ceremony
(*3) Marea - a Maori meeting place
(*4) Hungi - a Maori greeting
Our first detour off the main road had me maneuvering our tiny car along an 11km, windy, golden gravel road just barely scraping by the monstrous campervans coming at us from the other direction. But, we were on a mission – to see Harwood's Hole. After careful and successful passage down Canaan Road, a 45 minute walk through a white dusted forest, and a brief scramble over a few well balanced boulders, we found it. A bit hard to miss, this cave is the largest in the southern hemisphere at 400m deep and 70m wide, with a 183m vertical drop! Duly noted, however, was the obvious lack of any form of safety barrier between the boulders we perched on and big ass Hole (no pun intended). It was whooper. The granddaddy of all holes! The big Kahuna!! Okay, you get the picture.
Next, we arrived at the Te Waikoropupu (or Pupu for short) Springs, a sacred area for the native Maori people. This spring bubbled some of the clearest water I've ever seen, and perhaps the clearest in the world according to my Lonely Planet travel guide. Farther up the road, just opposite our camping grounds, is where we visited the Mussel Inn to sample their Freckled Frog Cider, a homemade brew made from an NZ grown fruit the Feijoa. It was delicious!
We spent the next two days tramping around the Farewell Spit and Wharariki Beach, even reaching the highest point of the South Island at Cape Farewell. The beaches and archways carved into the cliffs afforded some incredibly picturesque views – that is when we weren't squinting our eyes, heads bowed to the unrelenting wind that whipped and whirled the fine granules of sand into any welcoming orifice. It wasn't until we were safely sheltered from the brutal blasts of beach weather, that we realized how smooth our skin was. Apparently, all it takes is a few hours battling the elements of the Golden Bay for a free, full-bodied exfoliation. I can see it now:
Come to Golden Bay for the Gold Treatment!
Absolutely FREE!
*Only while weather lasts*
On the last morning of our road trip together, Lorna and I stumbled upon the best beach ever – the beach of Totaranui. Seriously, this place should have a blue “#1” ribbon just to prepare people for it's awesomeness. With golden sands, sapphire seas, and a brilliant yellow orb glowing out of a blue sky, this Abel Tasman National Park gem made us feel like we'd be doing the beach an injustice if we didn't crack open a brew and cheers to a fabulous road trip. Never mind that the time read “10:49AM.” Cheers! :-D
I spent two more days in Golden Bay with a fellow named John who, if I think really, really, really hard, I can remember playing on my mom and dad's softball team back in the 90's. John and his partner Brian were most hospitable, and I very much enjoyed my time with them!
Hitching back to Nelson, I had the good fortune of meeting Patrick, who is best described by his very own words: “an awesome bloke.” When Patrick found out that I didn't yet have a place to stay in Nelson, he offered to let me crash at his place for as long as I wished. As a fellow world backpacker, Patrick was happy to pay-it-forward for all the times he'd been helped out during his travels. And, I was delighted to be on the receiving end of his generous offer! Patrick was on his way back to Golden Bay that afternoon, meaning that I had the house all to myself. And, with only a 10 minute walk to the Tahuna Beach, I was happy as a clam! Two thumbs up for cool people.
I've been in Nelson for a week now and enjoying the benefits of a living in the eco-friendly New Zealand city. Nelson has a lovely city center with heaps of cool shops, coffee houses, and even a cathedral smack dab in the middle. Thus, I've been enjoying a relaxing few days of beach bumming in Tahuna, window shopping, lunching at the local eateries, and strolling the Saturday market with a paper bag full of fresh orchard cherries. I reunited with a Taupo friend of mine, Ivonne, and we've been keeping ourselves entertained by the Busker Street Festival, watching a French man on stilts puppeteer Pandora the human (and female) version of Pinocchio. We also attended the International Kai(*1) Festival which was full of enticing smells from food stands selling international specialties. Here, we participated in a Maori Hui(*2) welcoming us to the Nelson Marae(*3). It was beautifully done with speeches in Maori by the elders and ending with a Hungi(*4). So, if when I next see you, I grasp your hand and pull you in close in order to touch our foreheads and noses, don't be alarmed - you've just experienced a heart warming Hungi from me to you.
Learn a bit of Maori:
(*1) Kai - Maori for “food”
(*2) Hui - a Maori welcoming ceremony
(*3) Marea - a Maori meeting place
(*4) Hungi - a Maori greeting
Thursday, January 27
Feeling Foxy
With altogether pleasant memories of Wanaka, I made my way farther up the West Coast to the small town of Fox Glacier – properly named cause, well, there's this really big glacier there. After settling in at the Inn, I took an evening stroll to Lake Matheson, a picturesque spot to view the mountain range that tucks in the wee Fox Glacier. The rippled mirror view from the shimmering lake only heightened my anticipation for the full-day glacier hike I was booked on for the following morning.
I arrived at Fox Glacier Guiding (FGG) promptly at 9:10am and was pointed in the direction of the Boot Room where I met my enthusiastic guide Ruth. Ruth, by both appearance and personality, reminded me of Ms. Frizzle from the Magic School Bus – a springy, ginger-haired lady with an adventurous spirit! With my rented boots snuggly laced and my backpack packed with lunch, water, a rain jacket, hat, mittens, and, of course, my trusty camera, I was eager to hit the ice!
After about an hour of steep hiking through native bush, with a break at Kodak Point to photograph the impressive terminal face of Fox Glacier, we took a moment to secure our cramp-ons to the soles of our boots – a necessary addition for the next four hours of tramping on the glacier.
Now, prior to our arrival that morning, a crew from FGG had already hacked through the icy mass to carve out steps for the tour groups of the day – a high-energy task that needs doing every single morning to ensure safe and easy access to the upper parts of the glacier. With our wooden walking poles in hand as an extra leg for balance, we excitedly tromped our way up and over the ancient ice in single file. Throughout the hike, Ruth skillfully helped us sidestep small cracks and bigger crevasses that slowly (and I mean very, very, very slowly) are created as the 11 kilometer long ice flow inches forward, like a narcoleptic snail.
Some of these crevasses are actually big enough to squeeze through as we learned by taking a drippy detour through two giant cracks in the glacier ice. After lunch (and a numb bum from sitting on the ice too long), Ruth discovered a small, circular cave whose smooth sides were tinged with cool blue ice – the kind of blue that looks as though the sky has been trapped behind a transparent glass panel. The constant rain of melting ice and the super slippery floor didn't keep any of us from ducking in and exploring the interior of the cave. It was cool as, bro!
At our highest point in the hike, we had an unobstructed view of what I dubbed, “The Foxy Niagara.” The glacier river above fed the enormous waterfall whose icy and jagged streams stood frozen in time – as if Medusa and her writhing head of slithering snakes had decided to pay a visit.
As we made our way back down the glacier, I quietly contemplated the fact that I had just spent the last 4 hours crunching in and out, up, over, and through something that dates back 15,000 to 20,000 years ago! I mean, that's pretty remarkable, eh? And I thought being 24 was old...*
The next day, I traveled further up the coast to the sea-side town of Punakaiki where I hiked the Pororari River Track - a beautiful nature trail that follows the base of a rugged limestone gorge. I felt like I was in the greenhouse of the Minnesota Zoo. It smelt of sticky heat and was pungently sweet, the massive gray boulders had fallen into the river just so, and the insect/bird tape recording was being blasted much too loudly to the point where I could have sworn there was a symphony of cicadas perched right on my shoulder. Needless to say, I'll take the screech of the cicada over the bite of a sandfly any day.
To complete my afternoon hike, I visited the infamous Pancake Rocks and Blow Holes which is what Punakaiki is best known for. With stunning views of the turbulent sea, the Pancake Rocks are quite a site to see! I should have thought to bring along my maple syrup, as these stacks of irregularly shaped “pancakes” look almost good enough to lay out your red-checkered tablecloth and shout “Time for breakfast!” Although they're not really edible (duh...), the sea is slowly but surely eating away at the layered rocky towers. Sheesh, is anyone else hungry??
* Nah, I'm only kiddin' ;-)
I arrived at Fox Glacier Guiding (FGG) promptly at 9:10am and was pointed in the direction of the Boot Room where I met my enthusiastic guide Ruth. Ruth, by both appearance and personality, reminded me of Ms. Frizzle from the Magic School Bus – a springy, ginger-haired lady with an adventurous spirit! With my rented boots snuggly laced and my backpack packed with lunch, water, a rain jacket, hat, mittens, and, of course, my trusty camera, I was eager to hit the ice!
After about an hour of steep hiking through native bush, with a break at Kodak Point to photograph the impressive terminal face of Fox Glacier, we took a moment to secure our cramp-ons to the soles of our boots – a necessary addition for the next four hours of tramping on the glacier.
Now, prior to our arrival that morning, a crew from FGG had already hacked through the icy mass to carve out steps for the tour groups of the day – a high-energy task that needs doing every single morning to ensure safe and easy access to the upper parts of the glacier. With our wooden walking poles in hand as an extra leg for balance, we excitedly tromped our way up and over the ancient ice in single file. Throughout the hike, Ruth skillfully helped us sidestep small cracks and bigger crevasses that slowly (and I mean very, very, very slowly) are created as the 11 kilometer long ice flow inches forward, like a narcoleptic snail.
Some of these crevasses are actually big enough to squeeze through as we learned by taking a drippy detour through two giant cracks in the glacier ice. After lunch (and a numb bum from sitting on the ice too long), Ruth discovered a small, circular cave whose smooth sides were tinged with cool blue ice – the kind of blue that looks as though the sky has been trapped behind a transparent glass panel. The constant rain of melting ice and the super slippery floor didn't keep any of us from ducking in and exploring the interior of the cave. It was cool as, bro!
At our highest point in the hike, we had an unobstructed view of what I dubbed, “The Foxy Niagara.” The glacier river above fed the enormous waterfall whose icy and jagged streams stood frozen in time – as if Medusa and her writhing head of slithering snakes had decided to pay a visit.
As we made our way back down the glacier, I quietly contemplated the fact that I had just spent the last 4 hours crunching in and out, up, over, and through something that dates back 15,000 to 20,000 years ago! I mean, that's pretty remarkable, eh? And I thought being 24 was old...*
The next day, I traveled further up the coast to the sea-side town of Punakaiki where I hiked the Pororari River Track - a beautiful nature trail that follows the base of a rugged limestone gorge. I felt like I was in the greenhouse of the Minnesota Zoo. It smelt of sticky heat and was pungently sweet, the massive gray boulders had fallen into the river just so, and the insect/bird tape recording was being blasted much too loudly to the point where I could have sworn there was a symphony of cicadas perched right on my shoulder. Needless to say, I'll take the screech of the cicada over the bite of a sandfly any day.
To complete my afternoon hike, I visited the infamous Pancake Rocks and Blow Holes which is what Punakaiki is best known for. With stunning views of the turbulent sea, the Pancake Rocks are quite a site to see! I should have thought to bring along my maple syrup, as these stacks of irregularly shaped “pancakes” look almost good enough to lay out your red-checkered tablecloth and shout “Time for breakfast!” Although they're not really edible (duh...), the sea is slowly but surely eating away at the layered rocky towers. Sheesh, is anyone else hungry??
* Nah, I'm only kiddin' ;-)
Sunday, January 23
A Barefoot Birthday
After leaving the comforts of Milford, I arrived in the lakeside town of Wanaka – a place where you can actually order a veggie burger named after the famous U.S. Country singer Shania Twain. Who'da thunk? But, besides the availability of celebrity burgers, Wanaka boasts some great hikes, a one-of-a-kind cinema, and the mind-trippy Puzzling World! With all these claims to fame, it's no wonder I found myself staying an extra week – it's a big kids playground!
I had a gig working for accommodation at Wanaka Bakpaka which meant that I got the privilege to live in the “Do Duck Inn” staff room. However, within the first couple days, my roomies and I were wishing it was named the “DoN'T Duck Inn” as new guests often mistook our small, hobbit-sized door for the hostel reception. Needless to say, I didn't spend much time in DDI since the weather outside was summery gorgeousness, and I spent my mornings and afternoons wriggling my barefeet in the soft, green grass, petting the hostel's stray kitty Food, or reading my newest romance novel next to the town's stoney (and sometimes rather windy) lakeside beach. Summer was here!!! :-D
During my two week stay in Wanaka, I couldn't seem to find enough time in a day! On day one, I borrowed the purple bike and joined my friends Ricarda and Hannah on a cycle around Lake Wanaka with a stop midway for a breath-stealing dip in it's icy blue waters. The next day, I met up with Hannah and her housemate Nikki for a morning tramp up the Rocky Mountain with rewarding views of Wanaka, Mt. Aspiring, and Shania Twain's ever-expanding acreage of NZ soil.
With all the exercise friendly activities to do in Wanaka, it came as no surprise that the town just happened to be hosting one of the world's top six Iron Man competitions that weekend – the Wanaka Challenge. Two days before the big race, my roommate Steffi and I got to hang out with one of the athletes! Jonathon Simpson – Simo for short – a 33 time Iron Man Tri-athlete! Holy WOW! Jonathon offered to take Steffi and I to Arrowtown for the day where we window shopped around the quaint, historical gold-mining town. The highlight of the day was coming across a few adorable, young entrepreneurs selling fresh, organic plums from their roadside stand. “2 for 10 cents, 4 for 20 cents, 6 for 30 cents” read their colorful, handmade sign. I couldn't help myself – I bought a whole dollars worth. Their cuteness made them irresistible salesmen!
Instead of sleeping in on Saturday morning, myself, along with three of my Bakpaka mates, were up bright and early to cheer on the Iron Man participants! Although it was early, the whole town was buzzing with excitement and pulsing with secondhand adrenaline from the athletes who were currently swimming 3.8 kilometers in windy weather and choppy lake conditions. We cheered our hearts out for each swimmer emerging from the unwelcoming lake and gave extra whoops and hollers to Jonathon when we finally spotted him! We rushed over to the bike transition area and cheered again as he zoomed by and gave us the thumbs up. Only a 180 km cycle and a full marathon to go...God speed Simo! (*It wasn't until the next day that we saw Jonathon again. He completed the race in 17 hours and 15 minutes, crossing the finish line 15 minutes before the cut off time! Bravo!*)
On the only rainy day I had in Wanaka, a group of us went to check out Puzzling World, a place filled to the brim with mind-playing illusions, a disorientatingly (if that's not in the dictionary, it should be...) tilting room, the most photographed toilets in NZ, and a room full of puzzles! For a rainy afternoon, this is both big and little kid paradise.
Another must-do of Wanaka is the world-famous Paradiso cinema known for their fresh-baked, chewy cookies at intermission and theater seats that include a variety of comfy couches and even a bright yellow car! Not having yet seen the latest Harry Potter movie, my Canadian friend Laura joined me for nearly three hours of teenagers romancing and spell casting – I thought the movie was wicked! :-)
Wanaka, with it's quiet, lakeside charm, was also where I decided to celebrate my 24th birthday. I woke up on Friday morning, only to enter the kitchen to a tray full of “Americans” (Yeah, there's actually a cookie named after us! How did I not know this??) alight with 24 glowing birthday candles. Cheers to Ricarda for awesome birthday breakfast cookies! I spent my first EVER summer birthday doing what I've never been able to do before – lounge in the warm sun, drink a few brews, and be barefoot. Ahhh - being 24 never felt so good.
I had a gig working for accommodation at Wanaka Bakpaka which meant that I got the privilege to live in the “Do Duck Inn” staff room. However, within the first couple days, my roomies and I were wishing it was named the “DoN'T Duck Inn” as new guests often mistook our small, hobbit-sized door for the hostel reception. Needless to say, I didn't spend much time in DDI since the weather outside was summery gorgeousness, and I spent my mornings and afternoons wriggling my barefeet in the soft, green grass, petting the hostel's stray kitty Food, or reading my newest romance novel next to the town's stoney (and sometimes rather windy) lakeside beach. Summer was here!!! :-D
During my two week stay in Wanaka, I couldn't seem to find enough time in a day! On day one, I borrowed the purple bike and joined my friends Ricarda and Hannah on a cycle around Lake Wanaka with a stop midway for a breath-stealing dip in it's icy blue waters. The next day, I met up with Hannah and her housemate Nikki for a morning tramp up the Rocky Mountain with rewarding views of Wanaka, Mt. Aspiring, and Shania Twain's ever-expanding acreage of NZ soil.
With all the exercise friendly activities to do in Wanaka, it came as no surprise that the town just happened to be hosting one of the world's top six Iron Man competitions that weekend – the Wanaka Challenge. Two days before the big race, my roommate Steffi and I got to hang out with one of the athletes! Jonathon Simpson – Simo for short – a 33 time Iron Man Tri-athlete! Holy WOW! Jonathon offered to take Steffi and I to Arrowtown for the day where we window shopped around the quaint, historical gold-mining town. The highlight of the day was coming across a few adorable, young entrepreneurs selling fresh, organic plums from their roadside stand. “2 for 10 cents, 4 for 20 cents, 6 for 30 cents” read their colorful, handmade sign. I couldn't help myself – I bought a whole dollars worth. Their cuteness made them irresistible salesmen!
Instead of sleeping in on Saturday morning, myself, along with three of my Bakpaka mates, were up bright and early to cheer on the Iron Man participants! Although it was early, the whole town was buzzing with excitement and pulsing with secondhand adrenaline from the athletes who were currently swimming 3.8 kilometers in windy weather and choppy lake conditions. We cheered our hearts out for each swimmer emerging from the unwelcoming lake and gave extra whoops and hollers to Jonathon when we finally spotted him! We rushed over to the bike transition area and cheered again as he zoomed by and gave us the thumbs up. Only a 180 km cycle and a full marathon to go...God speed Simo! (*It wasn't until the next day that we saw Jonathon again. He completed the race in 17 hours and 15 minutes, crossing the finish line 15 minutes before the cut off time! Bravo!*)
On the only rainy day I had in Wanaka, a group of us went to check out Puzzling World, a place filled to the brim with mind-playing illusions, a disorientatingly (if that's not in the dictionary, it should be...) tilting room, the most photographed toilets in NZ, and a room full of puzzles! For a rainy afternoon, this is both big and little kid paradise.
Another must-do of Wanaka is the world-famous Paradiso cinema known for their fresh-baked, chewy cookies at intermission and theater seats that include a variety of comfy couches and even a bright yellow car! Not having yet seen the latest Harry Potter movie, my Canadian friend Laura joined me for nearly three hours of teenagers romancing and spell casting – I thought the movie was wicked! :-)
Wanaka, with it's quiet, lakeside charm, was also where I decided to celebrate my 24th birthday. I woke up on Friday morning, only to enter the kitchen to a tray full of “Americans” (Yeah, there's actually a cookie named after us! How did I not know this??) alight with 24 glowing birthday candles. Cheers to Ricarda for awesome birthday breakfast cookies! I spent my first EVER summer birthday doing what I've never been able to do before – lounge in the warm sun, drink a few brews, and be barefoot. Ahhh - being 24 never felt so good.
Monday, January 10
My Milford Must Do's
After the holly, jollyness of Christmas and a very pub-friendly New Years, I was becoming increasingly more aware that my time in Milford was, in effect, beginning to evaporate. This fact was both alarming (How could I possibly leave such a wonderful place??) and thrilling (Alrighty! Where to next?!). But, I had some “Milford Must Dos” to check off my list before my final farewell. And, I had less than two weeks to do it. Ready, set, CHECK!
Must Do #1: Land on Big Bay
On New Years Eve day, I got a unique opportunity to take a scenic flight to Big Bay – an area of the Fiordland that is seen by very few people, mostly a handful of hikers or hunters, who have completed the Hollyford Track and request an airplane pick up from the Milford pilots. On this particular occasion, I accompanied Jenni, the Air Fiordland pilot, on a bumpy ride over the Milford Sound, along the West Coast, and ending with a surprisingly smooth beach landing on Big Bay where we picked up two stinky hunters and their shot of the week. Seeing the Fiordland from above is such a cool way to experience this area. I stared out the window in awe at the miles and miles of layered, green mountains that seemed to merge into the gray and foggy horizon. Incredible.
Must Do #2: Take a Late-Night Stroll
When I first arrived in Milford, my friend Elodie told me: “If you only do one thing in Milford while you're here, walk home from the pub at night. It's so worth it. You'll see why.” Well, I was at the pub, it was after midnight, and it was time to be getting back. So, I recruited my Alaskan friend Crystal to join me on my after dark stroll back to the Lodge. I suppose I should also mention that on this very night, the rain goddess had decided to take a particularly long shower with no regard whatsoever for water conservation. In other words, it was pissing down. Crystal and I couldn't have been more thrilled! Within minutes we were drenched to the bone (my black rubbish bag apparently not being a suitable alternative for a rain jacket...). It was so dark that I couldn't even see Crystal walking beside me, much less attempt to avoid the potholes filled to the brim with rainwater. But the coolest thing, by far, were the glowworms. It was as though the stars had broken loose and rolled down the mountainside, only to get stuck in and amongst the bush. With all the rain we'd been getting, the little buggers were extra hungry and they glowed with all their might – like teeny-tiny lanterns that did squat-shit for lighting the way. Awfully pretty though :-)
Must Do #3: Find the Secret Rock Pools
I give full credit to my friend Michelle for bringing me to this awesome place!! For two afternoons in a row, a small group of us 'locals' took a drive up to the Rock Pools (*secret location not disclosed*). Here, we spent hours basking beneath a cloudless sky on sun-warmed rocks with a glittering, waterfall fed pool just beside us for a easy cool-down. It was January and feeling like summer. Freakin' awesome!!
Must Do #4: Eat Some Glacier
With some serious perfect timing and a stroke of good luck, I somehow found myself strapped into the backseat of a helicopter, flying over the Fiords, and landing lightly on a Lord-knows-how-old glacier. If there is ever a good time to use the word “supercalifragilisticexpialidocious” this would be it! I mean, holy WOW!! I couldn't have kept the smile off my face if my life depended on it. To top it all off, I was wearing a sundress over my swimsuit with sandals on my feet. On a GLACIER! It could easily have been the excitement keeping me warm, but I didn't feel chilled in the slightest! I skipped carefully across the wet snow, watching out for crevices, crevasses, and other things I could potentially fall into. Then, I stole something. I stole a brilliant idea from my friend Crystal. Scooping up a handful of glacier, I took one glance (nope, not yellow!) and took a big bite. Mmm, ancient glacier ice! It's a delicacy here in NZ, don't cha know?
As hard hard as it was to say goodbye to my fellow Milfordonians, I was excited be on my way and explore the West Coast of the South Island for my last month in New Zealand! After a deep clean of Rapid Room #11 and lots of warm hugs from my wonderful, worldly friends, I hopped a plane to Queenstown. I quietly waved goodbye to Mitre Peak, Lady Bowen, and the hundreds of teeny tiny camper vans from my prime seat in the sky. A view for the perfect Milford farewell.
Must Do #1: Land on Big Bay
On New Years Eve day, I got a unique opportunity to take a scenic flight to Big Bay – an area of the Fiordland that is seen by very few people, mostly a handful of hikers or hunters, who have completed the Hollyford Track and request an airplane pick up from the Milford pilots. On this particular occasion, I accompanied Jenni, the Air Fiordland pilot, on a bumpy ride over the Milford Sound, along the West Coast, and ending with a surprisingly smooth beach landing on Big Bay where we picked up two stinky hunters and their shot of the week. Seeing the Fiordland from above is such a cool way to experience this area. I stared out the window in awe at the miles and miles of layered, green mountains that seemed to merge into the gray and foggy horizon. Incredible.
Must Do #2: Take a Late-Night Stroll
When I first arrived in Milford, my friend Elodie told me: “If you only do one thing in Milford while you're here, walk home from the pub at night. It's so worth it. You'll see why.” Well, I was at the pub, it was after midnight, and it was time to be getting back. So, I recruited my Alaskan friend Crystal to join me on my after dark stroll back to the Lodge. I suppose I should also mention that on this very night, the rain goddess had decided to take a particularly long shower with no regard whatsoever for water conservation. In other words, it was pissing down. Crystal and I couldn't have been more thrilled! Within minutes we were drenched to the bone (my black rubbish bag apparently not being a suitable alternative for a rain jacket...). It was so dark that I couldn't even see Crystal walking beside me, much less attempt to avoid the potholes filled to the brim with rainwater. But the coolest thing, by far, were the glowworms. It was as though the stars had broken loose and rolled down the mountainside, only to get stuck in and amongst the bush. With all the rain we'd been getting, the little buggers were extra hungry and they glowed with all their might – like teeny-tiny lanterns that did squat-shit for lighting the way. Awfully pretty though :-)
Must Do #3: Find the Secret Rock Pools
I give full credit to my friend Michelle for bringing me to this awesome place!! For two afternoons in a row, a small group of us 'locals' took a drive up to the Rock Pools (*secret location not disclosed*). Here, we spent hours basking beneath a cloudless sky on sun-warmed rocks with a glittering, waterfall fed pool just beside us for a easy cool-down. It was January and feeling like summer. Freakin' awesome!!
Must Do #4: Eat Some Glacier
With some serious perfect timing and a stroke of good luck, I somehow found myself strapped into the backseat of a helicopter, flying over the Fiords, and landing lightly on a Lord-knows-how-old glacier. If there is ever a good time to use the word “supercalifragilisticexpialidocious” this would be it! I mean, holy WOW!! I couldn't have kept the smile off my face if my life depended on it. To top it all off, I was wearing a sundress over my swimsuit with sandals on my feet. On a GLACIER! It could easily have been the excitement keeping me warm, but I didn't feel chilled in the slightest! I skipped carefully across the wet snow, watching out for crevices, crevasses, and other things I could potentially fall into. Then, I stole something. I stole a brilliant idea from my friend Crystal. Scooping up a handful of glacier, I took one glance (nope, not yellow!) and took a big bite. Mmm, ancient glacier ice! It's a delicacy here in NZ, don't cha know?
As hard hard as it was to say goodbye to my fellow Milfordonians, I was excited be on my way and explore the West Coast of the South Island for my last month in New Zealand! After a deep clean of Rapid Room #11 and lots of warm hugs from my wonderful, worldly friends, I hopped a plane to Queenstown. I quietly waved goodbye to Mitre Peak, Lady Bowen, and the hundreds of teeny tiny camper vans from my prime seat in the sky. A view for the perfect Milford farewell.
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