The Grandeur of Kaikoura

There aren't many places on earth where sea waves kiss sky scraping mountains. But, wouldn't ya know – New Zealand has one of those very special places. Taking the Transcoastal Railway, I arrived in the east coastal town of Kaikoura – cute and cozy with jaw dropping views and a variety of wildlife to feast your already wide-eyes upon. Here, I settled into my Turkish styled dorm room at the Albatross Hostel (a backpackers complete with organic, fair trade hot chocolate, numerous instruments, and the perfectly pillowed reading spot). This place was right up my alley :-)

I only spent one full day in Kaikoura and was told that visiting the seal colony and walking the Kaikoura Peninsula was a must (along with helicopter whale watching...maybe when money starts sprouting out my ears. So, taking this wise advice, I set out for a morning-afternoon hike. I just couldn't seem to get enough of the mountain view. The contrast of the snow on the peaks and the dark bouldered base was just spectacular. Add in the pebbled beach and endless blue horizon and it was, well, almighty.

When I reached the seal colony, I wouldn't have had to go any further than the parking lot to spot seals. And, as luck would have it, they were young seal pups! Gosh darn they were cute though - all spunky and curious surrounded by a handful of tourists “Ooo-ing” and “Aww-ing” and snapping photos. I wanted to take one home with me (seal pup, not a tourist). But, when I ventured further out in the colony, I passed a few of the Big Mamas and Papas. They weren't as friendly – territorial and sleepy was more like it. So, x-nay on the seal pet idea...



The rest of the walk around the peninsula was lovely. The jagged limestone coast was a stunning boarder to the turquoise seas. I tramped by some cud-munching cows who may have been a bit annoyed by my presence, so I scooted by quickly. And, throughout the entire walk, I'd often look out into the waters and squint to see if I could spot any whales. Wishful thinking perhaps...

R.I.P.

Thus far, the South Island is as beautiful as they say. Granted, I've only seen Picton (the quaint, gateway town into the South Island) and Blenheim (wine country, about 30km south of Picton). But, as far as gateway towns go, Picton boasts a picturesque backdrop of cloud-splitting mountains and the seemingly endless Sounds. Quite a jaw-dropping little welcome into the South!

For the past two weeks, I've been WWOOFing at Tombstone Backpackers. Tombstone (located on Gravesend Rd, hehe) is definitely one of the nicest hostels that I've been to in NZ so far. Lynne and Gordon, owners, managers, shuttle drivers, cheesy scone and birthday cake makers, bird and cat lovers, and oven-fired pizza creators, are the sweetest couple you ever did meet! It was so easy for me to settle right into the homely and cozy feel of this superb backpackers. R.I.P. - Resting In Picton :-)

And resting is certainly one of the things that I've been getting good at here! The weather tends to be fairly unpredictable throughout the day, yet Mother Nature most often decides to choose heavy rain and even stronger wind. Thus, after my 2 hours of morning cleaning for the hostel, I spend the rest of my day taking afternoon naps, doing lots of reading, taking long soaks in the hot tub, and practicing my skills at pool. Not too shabby!

However, on sunny days, Picton has some great hikes to offer, such as the Snout Track (profoundly named since it, well, looks like a snout...), that I completed on the first sunny day I got. At the end of the trail, I reached Snout Point and had a wide open spaces view of the Picton Harbour and the Queen Charlotte Sounds. And, as an added bonus, I got to see seals! They were showing off - swimming on their sides with their flippers poking out of the water and waving hello! Gotta love cheap entertainment.

On another sun-shining day, I went for a bike ride to Karaka Point which is also a Maori Pa Site. What is a Pa? Good question...of all the information that I read, I never once found the definition of a Pa. Settlement, maybe? But, as Karaka Point was about 10km out of town and farther up from the Snout Track, I got to see a slightly different view of the Queen Charlotte Sounds and was able gaze back at the Snout Point and Waikawa Bay.

But mostly, I am living in anticipation. Great anticipation of the next leg, erm, “wheel,” of my trip. That's right folks, I'm going biking! Since arriving in NZ and meeting a few cyclists along the way, I've made biking the South Island my number one “NZ Must Do.” So, in Christchurch, I plan to buy a bike and camping gear, significantly downsize my already relatively light load of luggage, and buy me a map! Yep, needless to say, I'm pretty stoked about putting my foot to the pedal in (* fingers crossed *) two short weeks. I can't wait!!

Shaking in my Booties

Spring is in the air here in New Zealand! I’ve felt the last of the winter chill, for two reasons mainly. One - well, winter is nearly over. And two - I’ve left Taupo’s snow-capped peaks for the southern breezes (a.ka. massive gales of wind!) in Wellington - the North Island’s windy city!

Nevertheless, I kept quite busy for the last month of the winter season in Taupo. On August 12th, I finished my final shift at Cybershed – the internet café that I will forever hold near and dear to my backpack traveling heart. But, I couldn’t bring myself to leave Taupo quite yet. I had another week as manager at Blackcurrant Backpackers, and I even though I had been in Taupo for nearly 4 months, I still had activities on my “Taupo Must-Do” list. So, I figured a bit more time staying in my home away from home would be a grand idea.

Unfortunately, it rained for much of my final days in Taupo, so checking off “Hike Mt. Tauhara” and “See Craters of the Moon” was delayed. But, I was able to have a mini-holiday away from Taupo when my friend Marcus and I decided to hitch up to Mt. Maunganui! Here, we checked out the Hot Saltwater Pools at the base of the Mount and then hiked to the summit of the Mount the next morning. This is the second time I hiked Mt. Maunganui and the views were just as stunning as before. The white beach and coastal towns of Tauranga and Mt. Maunganui are breathtaking. And, lucky for us, we had a picture perfect morning – meaning, we took LOOOADS of pictures!

From Mt. Maunganui, we rented a car and drove up the Coromandel Peninsula to Tairua, a bustling beach town in the summer, but you’d never guess it if you visited during the winter months. Besides Marcus and me, there was just one other guest at our hostel – a lovely French girl, Irene, who joined us for our adventure to Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove.

Hot Water Beach is a popular hot spot (literally…) for anyone that travels to the Coromandel. This beach is super unique in that, when it’s low tide, people come out to dig their own personal hot spa pools with spades and buckets. The geothermal activity beneath the beach heats up the water and, at some parts, it’s scalding hot! But, once your pool’s been dug, it’s a relaxing place to soak and enjoy the beautiful ocean views.

Cathedral Cove is another popular place to visit and isn’t far from Hot Water Beach. So, that’s where we went to next! The cove is fairly remote and only accessible through a hike in the bush or by boat. We ate lunch and explore bits of the cove, finding a super tall waterfall and an outhouse with a view! And, on the way back to the car park, we were greeted by the cutest lambs you ever did see. My goodness, they were adorable.

When we got back to Tairua, Marcus and I hiked up to the summit of Mt. Paku for a view of Tairua and its neighboring town, Pauanui. When we got back to the hostel, we went for a kayak around the bay before the sun went down. What a fun-filled day visiting more incredible parts of North Island.

On my last day as an official Blackcurrant staff member, we had an awesome sausage sizzling goodbye party on the Blackcurrant deck. It was great to have all the people that I’ve come to know in Taupo there for me to say goodbye to! The next day, I was headed up to Auckland, then down to Hamilton, and back through Rotorua before coming back to Taupo…again. I tell ya, they call it the Taupo trap for a reason!

I finally got lucky and for my last two days in Taupo, there was hardly any rain! So, I finally got the chance to hike up Mt. Tauhara and walk through Craters of the Moon and officially check them off my “Taupo Must-Do” list. Nothing like leaving things to the last minute!

My first stop on my way to the South Island was windy Welly – New Zealand’s capital city! I’ve been here for 5 days now and can see why so many New Zealanders prefer Wellington to any of the other “big cities” in NZ. It’s artsy, packed to the brim with cozy cafes, and boasts views of Mt. Victoria and the harbor.

I’ve enjoyed several of Wellington’s bookshops and have met up with several friends who I’ve met in other parts of NZ. My Texan friend Michelle, has generously let me crash on her comfy couch while I’ve been staying here. And, in the wee hours of the morning on Saturday the 4th, this couch was precisely where I was snoozing when I was rudely shaken awake by none other then…my first earthquake.

By now, I’m sure you’ve all heard of the 7.1 magnitude earthquake that rocked Christchurch that morning. It was amazing to have felt it being nearly 190 miles away! Thankfully, Michelle came out to check on me after the earth finished doing its thing. Apparently, Michelle has felt about 8 earthquakes since moving to Wellington, but most come from off shore and since Thorndon (where she lives) is located on a fault line, she tends to feel the quakes more than most parts of Wellington. We both went back to sleep and didn’t actually realize the extent of the damage done by the quake until we turned on the television the next morning. The quake has been a major news topic and conversation piece for many New Zealanders this weekend. As for me, it’s pretty bizarre to wake up with the entire apartment rocking back and forth. Put this one down in the Baby Book: “Anna’s First Natural Disaster.”

Even without the earth moving I’ve had an exciting time in Wellington! I went to my first Roller Derby bout where nearly 2,500 people attended. Ever seen “Whip It?” Well, it’s a bit like that but with fewer of the ladies getting their faces smashed in. But, there is still a lot of pushing, shoving, and plenty of falling. It’s pretty intense and the crowd really gets into it! The costumes are a major part of the bout as well. Both the players and the fans dress in some crazy attire! In this game, the saying “It’s all fun and games until somebody loses an eye” seems appropriate. Although, if you said, “It’s all fun and games, EVEN if somebody loses an eye” that would probably be fitting as well.

Well, this Wednesday, I’ll be off to the South Island for good! North Island - it’s been grand! South Island - ready or not! :-D