A Christmas Wonderland

Set on upholding my own personal holiday tradition, I started singing along to Christmas music on my iPod the very day after Thanksgiving. Without my usual Christmas triggers (snowflakes, snowmen, school cancellations, and Christmas decorating), I was bound and determined to get into the Christmas spirit! (And secretly hoping, wishing, and praying for snow!)

In early December, the Christmas trees went up in the Lodge lounge and in the Saigon staff quarters. About a week later, a package arrived for me from Mom, Dad, and Cate which I dutifully placed under the tree, resisting with all my might the “Oh just open it!!” remarks from my merry co-workers. *sigh*

Despite the glowing tree lights, presents, and humming hundreds of Christmas carols, it still wasn't feeling like Christmas. But, there was still time.

In mid-December, the Milford pub hosted a themed Christmas party for the Lodge staff. But, instead of cotton-topped Santa hats, pointy elf ears, and a room filled with red and green, the Milford Lodge gang arrived as a hodge-podge of interesting creatures. Our “Christmas” theme? Futuristic! We had in attendance Beer-Bot the Robot, Avatar, Wilson the Extra Head, Future Asian, and the Bearded Milford Man – each an interpretation of what we thought the “future” might look like. Oh, it was a merry night alright! Nothing like the “Bite My Box” game to get the crowd all Holly and Jolly! :-D

A few days later, for a bit o' Christmas fun (and as a gift to the person I was Secret Santa for), I rewrote the lyrics to “The 12 Days of Christmas” and turned it into “The Milford 12 Days of Christmas.” Go on, sing along ;-)

On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me,

12 guests a-scratchin'

11 waterfalls fallin'

10 boats a cruisin'

9 kayaks paddlin'

8 dolphins swimmin'

7 trampers stinkin'

6 seals layin'

5 BILLION SANDFLIES!!

4 chalet views

3 woofers

2 cheeky keas

And a Tui in a beech tree!

The Christmas spirit was finally starting to seep in! I whipped up a batch of “Reindeer Poop Cookies” (my favorite chocolatey, peanut buttery, oatmealy plops of No-bake goodness!) and wrote a sweet little Christmas note to accompany them:

Santa's reindeer came for a visit and shit on the roof... Help Yourself! ~ Anna

The entire batch had disappeared by the next day. What can I say? It's some good shit!

Now, it was less than a week till Christmas! And apparently in Milford, that means weather like you wouldn't believe. As I chilled out in the staff lounge, belting out Christmas tunes with Rosie O'Donnell, a needle and thread in hand, repairing a few holes in my travel-worn clothes, I was simultaneously keeping my fingers tightly crossed in hopes that the whole of Milford wouldn't get swept away by the torrential downpour of rain that had raised the river substantially in the last few hours. Not to mention, the entire foundation of Saigon was moaning LOUDLY in protest at the powerful wind, like the class nerd boldly refusing to give up his lunch money to the school bully. In the end, I couldn't help myself. I dawned my Santa hat, invited along my friend Crystal, and the two of us went bounding happily through the parking lot jumping smack-dab in the center of every puddle we could see! Merry *SPLASH!* Christmas!!

The heavy rain and brutal wind didn't end there. I think Mother Nature and Old Man Milford had gotten bored of quiet romantic picnics and decided to go out for a crazy night of dancing and drinking at the hippest dance club. The morning must have brought with it a wicked hangover as Milford suffered nearly 10 power outages and two road closings (because of a tree slide road block) over the next few days. Milford was getting exciting!! Not only exciting, but incredibly, stupendously, and awesomely beautiful. Just this week, I've witnessed some of the most stunning scenes of Milford that I have seen since I arrived here. The mountains became vertically striped with hundreds of white, flowy, watery ribbons, some splitting at the middle, like the silky ends of a graduation tassel. And all around, the clouds shimmered and hovered, gently caressing and protecting the fragile greenery that clung so desperately to the plunging mountain face.

A Christmas Wonderland.

And, in the midst of this summer storm, I sit, cozy and dry, listening, writing, sipping Hot Peppermint Chocolate, and simply grinning at the dangerously beautiful nature that surrounds me this Christmas. I have much to be thankful for as I reminisce about all that I've seen and done in 2010. It's been one hell of a year, and I am so happy to be able to share it with you. Family, friends, and loved ones are what give meaning to the Christmas season. You are all in my thoughts as I count my blessing of the old year to make ready for the new.

Happy and content, I look over my shoulder to glance out the window again at the magical view of the Fiordland. My eyes widen and my grin broadens – a fresh snow dusted mountain top. Wishes do come true! It looks like it's going to be a white Christmas after all.

May your days be merry and bright, and may all your Christmases be white.

Peace and Love, Anna

Underground Astronomy & A Wilderness Experience

With four days off from work at the Milford Lodge, I bussed to Te Anau for a change of scenery and further exploration of this beautiful part of the country. One of the Te Anau's touristy hot spots are the Glowworm Caves, located across Lake Te Anau. So, after a sunny and windy boat cruise across the lake, I reached the “Cavern” along with 50 or so other glowworm goers. As we sipped tea and coffee, we learned that unlike fireflies which glow to attract a mate, glowworms glow when they're hungry thus louring their unsuspecting insect prey into their dangling, beaded, and sticky fishing lines. Mmm, dinner's ready!

In groups of 10-12, we crouched low to shuffle our way under the cave entrance. Once inside, my ears were filled with the roar of rushing water, and my group made its way through the damp, cavernous hollows of the cave, seeing a few bluish pinpricks of light above and using the guide's torch to illuminate a clump of glowworm fishing lines that clung delicately to the overhanging rock. We paused again to watch the mad rush of water cascade over a U-shaped curve of rock above and falling to fill the swirling pool below which fed the underground river. At the end of the walkway, my group settled into a small boat and the lights went out leaving us in total and utter darkness. I couldn't see the outline of my fingers less than an inch from my face! The boat began to glide through the blackness, jolting it's passengers when it occasionally bumped the sides of the cave. The sound of the river was a distant hum, and everyone went unanimously silent in the stillness of the cave. With necks craned back, patches of tiny white lights began to pierce the blackness, like bright stars on a moonless night. I could have sworn I spotted the Big Dipper in this underground nighttime sky.

Experiencing the Glowworm Caves was an unexpected treat during my four day weekend. What I did have planned, however, was an entirely new adventure – a two day sea kayaking and camping trip in the Doubtful Sound, another part of the Fiordland's wondrous National Park. The Doubtful Sound isn't as easily accessible as the Milford Sound, thus making it much more remote and, well, wildernessy! My sea kayaking team was made up Matt and Fi, our two super guides from Fiordland Wilderness Experiences, Larry and Pam, a 60-something year old couple from North Carolina, and Jens, a photo-journalist from Germany who was “here on business.”

As we came over the highest point of the Wilmot Pass between Lake Manapouri and the Doubtful Sound, we got the chance to witness a rare view of the fiords. From high above, we could see a low-hanging cloud that blanketed the entire floor of the fiord, tucking in the ribbon of blue water from view. You could just imagine what the powerful glacier looked like thousands of years ago carving its way through the land. It was a pretty spectacular sight!

It was from Deep Cove that we set off in our sea kayaks, basking in the warmth of the sun, mouths gaping at the magnificent natural surroundings of the towering mountains. During the day, we paddled up close to the mountain sides, listened to funny bird calls, took time out for lunch and a swim (BRRR!!!), heard stories about Maori folklore, and learned historical and natural facts about the area from our knowledgeable guides. Near the end of our day's paddle we decided to “sail” our kayaks! To do so, we rafted up (all three kayaks coming together side by side) and held high a sturdy piece of cloth using two paddles from the back and two hands from the front. Then, it was just a matter of holding on tight and going with the wind! The rest of the afternoon hours were spent drinking in the intoxicating beauty of the Doubtful Sound wilderness and getting quite tipsy indeed! Then, it was time to set up camp for the night with our thousands upon millions of ungracious neighbors – the Sandflies.

Setting up tents and unloading gear was frequently interrupted by slapping various body parts, waving arms vigorously in the air, and pausing every so often to spit out a relentless sandfly that cruised its jolly way in between parted lips. I couldn't believe how many there were! Thankfully, once everything was set up, the six of us zipped ourselves into a mesh tent where we relaxed for the evening with several glasses of sweet wine and a smörgåsbord of cheese, crackers, chips, and dip – safe and sound from the miserable swarms of those biting black buggers.

We ordered another picture perfect day for day two of our sea kayaking expedition. With a few more red and itchy welts to decorate our already suntoasted skin, we began our paddle back out of Hall Arm to Malaspina Reach along the quiet waters of morning, gliding underneath the dripping overhangs of untouched greenery and watching reflections of the sunlight dance along the lower cliffs. It was peace and serenity at its very best.

We sailed the remainder of the trip back into Deep Cove, and I went for a final swim in it's chilly waters – an icy blast of a way to end an incredible kayaking and camping excursion in the magnificent and magical Doubtful Sound.