After Oamaru, I based myself in Dunedin – a vibrant university city swarming with students from all over the world! I couchsurfed for my first two nights in a house with five of the aforementioned students - three Kiwi guys and two American gals. This crazy family brought me straight back into memories of college living, complete with messy university housing, cheap evening entertainment at a local stand-up comedy venue, and a late night out at the university bar. Let the good times roll!
As a result of staying with these cool cats, I was offered free use of a mountain bike for my venture on the Otago Central Rail Trail! In fact, the Rail Trail is one of the top “101 Must Dos for Kiwis” so I was more than eager to begin! The 300+ kilometer ride from Middlemarch to Clyde back to Middlemarch was my watered down substitute to my original idea of a South Island bike tour.
From Dunedin to Middlemarch, I took the train along the scenic Taieri Gorge with my new-found Pennsylvanian friend Lauren. From Middlemarch, I bid Lauren farewell and set out on my bum-numbing six day ride. Wahoo!! :-D
And bum-numbing it was. Not to mention unforeseen challenges such dive-bombing magpies and the mighty & unrelenting headwinds. Those tuxedo clad birds are nothing less than the spawn of the devil... There I'd be, cruising along the graveled trail with mountains and rolling farmland on both sides, the sheep and cows pausing in their constant state of mastication to stare wide-eyed at this imposing cyclist, when SWOOSH! The wings of a magpie come within inches of my head, and my heartbeat skyrockets with a rush of adrenaline to propel me as quickly as possible away from THAT DAMN BIRD.
But even the demon magpies and the remarkable headwind (sometimes I felt as though I were cycling in slow motion - Bay Watch meets Tour de France!) wasn't enough to dampen my spirits. The peaceful scenery among the Central Otago region was a lovely accompaniment to the constant crunching sounds of slippery gravel under the grind of my spinning wheels. I averaged between 55-60 kilometers per day, staying the night at Holiday Parks or hostels and treating myself to scrumptious dinners in the evening.
When all was said and cycled, I took the train back to Dunedin – this time catching some Zzz's instead of enjoying the scenic vista – and was happily reunited with my friend Lauren! The next day, I joined Lauren, along with two other backpackers, Daniel and Angela, to explore the Otago Peninsula – an area well-known for the world's only mainland royal albatross colony, yellow-eyed penguins, massive sea lions, and WIND. The four of us decided to brave Sandfly Bay – a beach named not for the nasty biting sandfly but instead for the wind-bludgeoning* sand that literally pelts the poor bodies of anyone silly enough to cross the treacherous bay. And, well, we were silly enough. We spent our afternoon dodging lazy sea lions and trying to stay upright against the wind while attempting (without much success, might I add) to keep the sand from flying up our nose and out our ears. It was challenging, satisfying, and gritty fun!
Halloween was rather uneventful as the Kiwis don't much celebrate the holiday with the same gusto as Americans. Instead, I went out for sushi (Ooo! Dead fish...spooky!) and joined my friends for a suspenseful movie to mark the occasion. Happy belated Halloween!
* Phrase borrowed without permission from Lauren Sicher :-) Cheers! xx
Sunday, October 31
Monday, October 18
An Island of Mystic Spaces
If you looked at a map of the South Island, Lake Tekapo looks like God took his almighty thumb and fingerprinted himself smack dab in the centre of the Island. And good gracious, if God ever did get fingerprinted, Lake Tekapo is a fairly spectacular way of thumbing the earth. First off, the water is dyed a brilliant, opaque turquoise which only adds to the awe of the sky slicing mountains that boarder one long side of the lake. Sift on a bit of the icy cold white stuff to coat the mountain tips, and that, my friends, is just the icing on the cake.
I bussed to Tekapo to visit my friend Hugo and his girlfriend Helen who were superb hosts during my weekend stay. My weekend activities included hiking to the summit of Mt. John (and enjoying the awesome 360 degree panoramic views), soaking in the outdoor hot pools (during the only snow storm flurry that I've seen since I left Wisconsin), and attending a Sunday evening service at the quaint Church of the Good Shepard. Company of friends combined with a scenic beauty overload made for a delightful and relaxing weekend.
From Tekapo, I hitched to Oamaru where I was to begin WWOOFing at Chillawhile Backpackers where I was more than happy to just, well, chill a while. The hostel is a hodgepodge of art displays, heart-thumping music, miss-matching comforters and pillow cases, half-tuned instruments, and backyard clothes lines which are consistently hidden under billowing sheets, clothes, and towels drying in the sunshine.
As far as the town goes, there's not so much to see besides the semi-restored, semi-rundown historical district and the infamous blue-penguin and yellow-eyed penguin colonies. I've gone for several walks and, without much help from the windy coast, tried flying my brand-new stunt kite in the park just in front of the backpackers. So, to mix things up a bit, I contacted a fellow Couchsurfer, 50-something year old Peter, a history buff and Otago area tour guide extraordinaire.
So, on a cloudy Friday afternoon, Peter drove and talked me all the way to the Moeraki Boulders, nearly 40 km south of Oamaru. This well-visited beach site is home to a set of round, massive rocks that have settled into the sand. And lucky for us, we arrived at low tide so you could really see just how unique the boulders were. They honestly look as though they are a set of Giant's Marbles, scattered carelessly on the beach. I've never seen anything like it and was quite captivated.
The Moeraki Boulders were only the beginning of an afternoon of intriguing sites that Peter took me too. Just a bit farther up the road, we tried to catch a glimpse of yellow-eyed penguins, but didn't see more than a few tubby fur-seals. Then, a drive through some less traveled roads between Highway-85 and Highway-83 brought about some goose-flesh tingling scenery. In a pasture dubbed “The Vanishing World,” I spotted honey-combed, limestone rock and a protected ancient whale fossil. It's no wonder the jagged cliffs of limestone and lush green pastures of the area brought out the film-makers of the movie “Narnia – the Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.” I was able to visit one filming spot in particular, the site of the Elephant Rocks, where gynormous limestone rocks have settled after having been elegantly carved by wind, rain, and rivers. The naturally calming site is so-named for the way in which some of the rocks actually do resemble giant elephants. It's as though Medusa came by, with all her wrath, and looked an entire herd of elephants point-blank in the eye. Whadya know – stoned for life.
Over the weekend, Peter and I met up again to go penguin-spotting near the wharf. It was drizzling lightly and dark (most of the blue-penguins come up to check on their nests around 8pm after the sun's sunk beneath the horizon) but we spotted nearly 30 penguins! They were huddled under branches by the rocky coast or waddling down the wharf. We even caught a couple mating under the street light (not very inconspicuous of them...) and got lucky enough to glimpse a baby penguin crouched and trembling outside it's nest. Peter told me that he's never seen that many penguins by the wharf before, so I was uber lucky! But, as cute as they are, these little fellows create quite a racket and smell like a dumpster load of rotting fish. Thus, I was more then happy to leave the waddling tuxedos for the comfort (and exceedingly nicer smelling) lounge of Chillawhile with a novel, comfy chair, and blazing heater to boot!
I bussed to Tekapo to visit my friend Hugo and his girlfriend Helen who were superb hosts during my weekend stay. My weekend activities included hiking to the summit of Mt. John (and enjoying the awesome 360 degree panoramic views), soaking in the outdoor hot pools (during the only snow storm flurry that I've seen since I left Wisconsin), and attending a Sunday evening service at the quaint Church of the Good Shepard. Company of friends combined with a scenic beauty overload made for a delightful and relaxing weekend.
From Tekapo, I hitched to Oamaru where I was to begin WWOOFing at Chillawhile Backpackers where I was more than happy to just, well, chill a while. The hostel is a hodgepodge of art displays, heart-thumping music, miss-matching comforters and pillow cases, half-tuned instruments, and backyard clothes lines which are consistently hidden under billowing sheets, clothes, and towels drying in the sunshine.
As far as the town goes, there's not so much to see besides the semi-restored, semi-rundown historical district and the infamous blue-penguin and yellow-eyed penguin colonies. I've gone for several walks and, without much help from the windy coast, tried flying my brand-new stunt kite in the park just in front of the backpackers. So, to mix things up a bit, I contacted a fellow Couchsurfer, 50-something year old Peter, a history buff and Otago area tour guide extraordinaire.
So, on a cloudy Friday afternoon, Peter drove and talked me all the way to the Moeraki Boulders, nearly 40 km south of Oamaru. This well-visited beach site is home to a set of round, massive rocks that have settled into the sand. And lucky for us, we arrived at low tide so you could really see just how unique the boulders were. They honestly look as though they are a set of Giant's Marbles, scattered carelessly on the beach. I've never seen anything like it and was quite captivated.
The Moeraki Boulders were only the beginning of an afternoon of intriguing sites that Peter took me too. Just a bit farther up the road, we tried to catch a glimpse of yellow-eyed penguins, but didn't see more than a few tubby fur-seals. Then, a drive through some less traveled roads between Highway-85 and Highway-83 brought about some goose-flesh tingling scenery. In a pasture dubbed “The Vanishing World,” I spotted honey-combed, limestone rock and a protected ancient whale fossil. It's no wonder the jagged cliffs of limestone and lush green pastures of the area brought out the film-makers of the movie “Narnia – the Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.” I was able to visit one filming spot in particular, the site of the Elephant Rocks, where gynormous limestone rocks have settled after having been elegantly carved by wind, rain, and rivers. The naturally calming site is so-named for the way in which some of the rocks actually do resemble giant elephants. It's as though Medusa came by, with all her wrath, and looked an entire herd of elephants point-blank in the eye. Whadya know – stoned for life.
Over the weekend, Peter and I met up again to go penguin-spotting near the wharf. It was drizzling lightly and dark (most of the blue-penguins come up to check on their nests around 8pm after the sun's sunk beneath the horizon) but we spotted nearly 30 penguins! They were huddled under branches by the rocky coast or waddling down the wharf. We even caught a couple mating under the street light (not very inconspicuous of them...) and got lucky enough to glimpse a baby penguin crouched and trembling outside it's nest. Peter told me that he's never seen that many penguins by the wharf before, so I was uber lucky! But, as cute as they are, these little fellows create quite a racket and smell like a dumpster load of rotting fish. Thus, I was more then happy to leave the waddling tuxedos for the comfort (and exceedingly nicer smelling) lounge of Chillawhile with a novel, comfy chair, and blazing heater to boot!
Thursday, October 7
Sport 101 (with an Aussie flair)
I had a relaxing and enjoyable stay in Kaikoura but was eager to move on to the earth shaken city of Christchurch where I would get the chance to visit some long-time family friends of mine – Gail & Steve and Katie & Mark from Australia. I've been staying with Katie and Mark in Rolleston and having a smashing time! I've been expanding my Australian vocabulary with words like “Poofter” and phrases such as “Getting the shits” but, just as importantly, having a significant number of Kiwi/Aussie sport related cultural experiences! All of which have been top notch :-) Let me divulge.
Mark and Katie are originally from Australia, but moved to Christchurch over a year ago so that Mark could pursue his career as a race commentator – harness racing that is. This sport is quite popular in New Zealand, and Mark ranks very high as one of New Zealand's best race callers. With Katie as my guide, we watched one race high up in the stands. There are typically about 10 races per day and each race seems to take place in about 10 blinks of an eye. It's quick! We were watching the Trots form of racing, where the drivers ride and steer from a carriage pulled by the horse. The races begin with a mobile start meaning that the horses are already running when they cross the “start” line. There's a lot to the race that I have yet to understand, but it was still exciting to watch! We watched a second race from the sidelines – up close and personal! You couldn't get any closer to the race without risking getting mowed over by the thundering beasts. And, for my third race, I got VIP access to the commenter box (aka Mark's office). It helps being friends with people up top! From here I got a full view of the race track and even got to watch Mark as he called out during the race and announced the winners at the end. If only I had placed a bet or two...
Over the weekend, I had my first lesson on the sport Rugby League via television with two Australian teams dueling for the big win - the Roosters verses the Dragons. Now, Rugby LEAGUE rules are quite different from Rugby UNION rules. I'm not going to bore you with all the differences (mostly, because I don't really know them...) but let me just say that League rules are much simpler and easier to follow.
* WARNING – THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT MAY NOT BE SUITABLE TO SOME AUDIENCES *
I like Rugby League more than American Football.
And here's why: Because it flows. It seems to me like football has too many timeouts and whistle blowing and clock stopping. Rugby, however, is like the Energizer Bunny. It just keeps going and going and going. And I like that. Plus, you can actually SEE the players as well. They're not all decked out in padding and helmets. Just good, ol' fashioned short shorts. Yeah, rugby wins :-)
And then there's netball. I learned the basics to this English sport last summer, but after some superb coaching from Katie, watching netball during the Commonwealth Games broadcast, and a 10-minute Netball boot camp, I made my NZ YMCA Netball Club debut! I crossed my fingers that I wouldn't bomb too much and put on my Wing Attack (WA) jersey. Turns out my 8th grade basketball skills came in handy, and I didn't do half bad! Not having to worry about dribbling the ball was a big bonus since I never did quite master that skill. And I only got penalized by the ref twice for stepping out of my designated “Wing Attack Area.” All in all, I had a darn good time out on the court!
Nevertheless, sports isn't the only thing that's been rocking in Christchurch. Aftershocks have been rippling through the city quite frequently since the 7.1 earthquake on September 4th. In fact, over 1,000 aftershocks have been recorded in the past month. It's been pretty common for me to be sitting in the house or lying in bed when all of a sudden I hear a dull roar and feel the entire house vibrate beneath my feet. The biggest one I've experienced here was scaled at 5.0 and the epicentre was just about 5-10km out of Rolleston. And even though I never get used to them (they take me by surprise every time), I kind of expect it now. Call me crazy, but I actually think it's pretty cool feeling the earth shift and settle right beneath my toes. You're completely at Mother Nature's mercy. Thus, I've come acknowledge each aftershock as a “count my blessings” reminder. A million blessings and counting! :-D
Mark and Katie are originally from Australia, but moved to Christchurch over a year ago so that Mark could pursue his career as a race commentator – harness racing that is. This sport is quite popular in New Zealand, and Mark ranks very high as one of New Zealand's best race callers. With Katie as my guide, we watched one race high up in the stands. There are typically about 10 races per day and each race seems to take place in about 10 blinks of an eye. It's quick! We were watching the Trots form of racing, where the drivers ride and steer from a carriage pulled by the horse. The races begin with a mobile start meaning that the horses are already running when they cross the “start” line. There's a lot to the race that I have yet to understand, but it was still exciting to watch! We watched a second race from the sidelines – up close and personal! You couldn't get any closer to the race without risking getting mowed over by the thundering beasts. And, for my third race, I got VIP access to the commenter box (aka Mark's office). It helps being friends with people up top! From here I got a full view of the race track and even got to watch Mark as he called out during the race and announced the winners at the end. If only I had placed a bet or two...
Over the weekend, I had my first lesson on the sport Rugby League via television with two Australian teams dueling for the big win - the Roosters verses the Dragons. Now, Rugby LEAGUE rules are quite different from Rugby UNION rules. I'm not going to bore you with all the differences (mostly, because I don't really know them...) but let me just say that League rules are much simpler and easier to follow.
* WARNING – THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT MAY NOT BE SUITABLE TO SOME AUDIENCES *
I like Rugby League more than American Football.
And here's why: Because it flows. It seems to me like football has too many timeouts and whistle blowing and clock stopping. Rugby, however, is like the Energizer Bunny. It just keeps going and going and going. And I like that. Plus, you can actually SEE the players as well. They're not all decked out in padding and helmets. Just good, ol' fashioned short shorts. Yeah, rugby wins :-)
And then there's netball. I learned the basics to this English sport last summer, but after some superb coaching from Katie, watching netball during the Commonwealth Games broadcast, and a 10-minute Netball boot camp, I made my NZ YMCA Netball Club debut! I crossed my fingers that I wouldn't bomb too much and put on my Wing Attack (WA) jersey. Turns out my 8th grade basketball skills came in handy, and I didn't do half bad! Not having to worry about dribbling the ball was a big bonus since I never did quite master that skill. And I only got penalized by the ref twice for stepping out of my designated “Wing Attack Area.” All in all, I had a darn good time out on the court!
Nevertheless, sports isn't the only thing that's been rocking in Christchurch. Aftershocks have been rippling through the city quite frequently since the 7.1 earthquake on September 4th. In fact, over 1,000 aftershocks have been recorded in the past month. It's been pretty common for me to be sitting in the house or lying in bed when all of a sudden I hear a dull roar and feel the entire house vibrate beneath my feet. The biggest one I've experienced here was scaled at 5.0 and the epicentre was just about 5-10km out of Rolleston. And even though I never get used to them (they take me by surprise every time), I kind of expect it now. Call me crazy, but I actually think it's pretty cool feeling the earth shift and settle right beneath my toes. You're completely at Mother Nature's mercy. Thus, I've come acknowledge each aftershock as a “count my blessings” reminder. A million blessings and counting! :-D
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