With four days off from work at the Milford Lodge, I bussed to Te Anau for a change of scenery and further exploration of this beautiful part of the country. One of the Te Anau's touristy hot spots are the Glowworm Caves, located across Lake Te Anau. So, after a sunny and windy boat cruise across the lake, I reached the “Cavern” along with 50 or so other glowworm goers. As we sipped tea and coffee, we learned that unlike fireflies which glow to attract a mate, glowworms glow when they're hungry thus louring their unsuspecting insect prey into their dangling, beaded, and sticky fishing lines. Mmm, dinner's ready!
In groups of 10-12, we crouched low to shuffle our way under the cave entrance. Once inside, my ears were filled with the roar of rushing water, and my group made its way through the damp, cavernous hollows of the cave, seeing a few bluish pinpricks of light above and using the guide's torch to illuminate a clump of glowworm fishing lines that clung delicately to the overhanging rock. We paused again to watch the mad rush of water cascade over a U-shaped curve of rock above and falling to fill the swirling pool below which fed the underground river. At the end of the walkway, my group settled into a small boat and the lights went out leaving us in total and utter darkness. I couldn't see the outline of my fingers less than an inch from my face! The boat began to glide through the blackness, jolting it's passengers when it occasionally bumped the sides of the cave. The sound of the river was a distant hum, and everyone went unanimously silent in the stillness of the cave. With necks craned back, patches of tiny white lights began to pierce the blackness, like bright stars on a moonless night. I could have sworn I spotted the Big Dipper in this underground nighttime sky.
Experiencing the Glowworm Caves was an unexpected treat during my four day weekend. What I did have planned, however, was an entirely new adventure – a two day sea kayaking and camping trip in the Doubtful Sound, another part of the Fiordland's wondrous National Park. The Doubtful Sound isn't as easily accessible as the Milford Sound, thus making it much more remote and, well, wildernessy! My sea kayaking team was made up Matt and Fi, our two super guides from Fiordland Wilderness Experiences, Larry and Pam, a 60-something year old couple from North Carolina, and Jens, a photo-journalist from Germany who was “here on business.”
As we came over the highest point of the Wilmot Pass between Lake Manapouri and the Doubtful Sound, we got the chance to witness a rare view of the fiords. From high above, we could see a low-hanging cloud that blanketed the entire floor of the fiord, tucking in the ribbon of blue water from view. You could just imagine what the powerful glacier looked like thousands of years ago carving its way through the land. It was a pretty spectacular sight!
It was from Deep Cove that we set off in our sea kayaks, basking in the warmth of the sun, mouths gaping at the magnificent natural surroundings of the towering mountains. During the day, we paddled up close to the mountain sides, listened to funny bird calls, took time out for lunch and a swim (BRRR!!!), heard stories about Maori folklore, and learned historical and natural facts about the area from our knowledgeable guides. Near the end of our day's paddle we decided to “sail” our kayaks! To do so, we rafted up (all three kayaks coming together side by side) and held high a sturdy piece of cloth using two paddles from the back and two hands from the front. Then, it was just a matter of holding on tight and going with the wind! The rest of the afternoon hours were spent drinking in the intoxicating beauty of the Doubtful Sound wilderness and getting quite tipsy indeed! Then, it was time to set up camp for the night with our thousands upon millions of ungracious neighbors – the Sandflies.
Setting up tents and unloading gear was frequently interrupted by slapping various body parts, waving arms vigorously in the air, and pausing every so often to spit out a relentless sandfly that cruised its jolly way in between parted lips. I couldn't believe how many there were! Thankfully, once everything was set up, the six of us zipped ourselves into a mesh tent where we relaxed for the evening with several glasses of sweet wine and a smörgåsbord of cheese, crackers, chips, and dip – safe and sound from the miserable swarms of those biting black buggers.
We ordered another picture perfect day for day two of our sea kayaking expedition. With a few more red and itchy welts to decorate our already suntoasted skin, we began our paddle back out of Hall Arm to Malaspina Reach along the quiet waters of morning, gliding underneath the dripping overhangs of untouched greenery and watching reflections of the sunlight dance along the lower cliffs. It was peace and serenity at its very best.
We sailed the remainder of the trip back into Deep Cove, and I went for a final swim in it's chilly waters – an icy blast of a way to end an incredible kayaking and camping excursion in the magnificent and magical Doubtful Sound.
Saturday, December 4
Friday, November 26
Mashed Potatoes, Yeah Yeah Yeah!
Considering the “bubble” like feel of my small Milford community, there really is quite a multitude of things to keep one busy. The dreaded B-word (“Bored” - *in hushed tones) hasn't even come close to escaping my lips. Exploring the stunning surroundings and working full-time has turned me into a busy little bee (correction – Sandfly), and I am having a great time!
On my first weekend off, I decided to go for an afternoon hike with three of my work friends, John, Jonathon, and Angie. John, having worked in Milford before, knew about a local secret trail which leads to the top of Bowen Falls, the Energizer Bunny of waterfalls in Milford. This is because firstly, it's flow generates enough electricity to supply Milford in its entirety. And secondly, it just keeps going and going and going, unlike the thousands of waterfalls that seem to magically appear whenever there's rain. Given that it was the first sunny and dry day in about a weeks time, the four of us were eager to tromp around, up, and through the dense and sodden rain forest.
The trail entrance was camouflaged and nearly impossible to spot. But, once discovered, we had John leading the way yelling, “Mud!” or “Branch!” as our sneakers squished through the soggy trail and dew-dropped leaves and fern fronds brushed our calves. We skipped (carefully...) over rocky streams and crept Spiderman-like through nearly vertical “V” shaped mountain sides. Then, we really started climbing! Ropes had been secured to trees and rocks in years past, and we were scaling up the side of the mountain, gripping fiercely to the ropes and praying that they wouldn't break or slip loose. I felt like an Amazon warrior woman! with a photographic edge.
After tramping our way up the bush, we came to the Pipeline which carries water from the top of Bowen Falls to the hydro-electric building at the base of the mountain. There was more rope and metal rods here to assist our climb, and eventually we just balanced our way to the top using the Pipeline as our cylindrical walkway.
Eventually, we reached the river that fed into Bowen Falls and began to make our way down-stream, hopping over boulders and splashing through the swift currents. Another short trek through the bush led us straight to where the river becomes waterfall – the majestic Bowen Falls. The view from the lookout was just spectacular! I could see the multicolored foreshore with it's greens and browns and blues, the silhouette of Mitre Peak, and the seemingly endless passage of water that winds it's way through the Milford Sound. I could have stayed up there for hours.
The next day, I walked to the foreshore with Jonathon and Leo to fly my stunt kite in the steady day breeze. We named my kite “Kea” after one of the native birds of the area. The colors of the kite and the colors of the Kea's wings are very similar so it seemed like a fitting name for my sky-high toy. With a backdrop of glacier carved mountains and the dark flow of water making its way out to the Tasman Sea, I'd have to say this is one of the most eye-appealing places that I've had the opportunity to practice flying my kite. It absolutely made my day!
After such a refreshing weekend filled with a rain forest tramp and some excellent hours of kite flying, it seemed like perfect timing to start giving some major thanks for the blessings I've had over the past year. And what better way to do that then with a proper Thanksgiving feast! My two fellow American co-workers, Jonathon from California and Crystal from Alaska, took over the meal preparations as I had begrudgingly come down with a nasty, energy zapping bug. But, there was no WAY I was missing out on this year's Thanksgiving celebration!
First and foremost, I have to give mad props to Jonathon and Crystal for their incredible Thanksgiving cooking! The table was piled high with dressing, meatballs, gravy, veggies and dip, and of course, the center piece – a golden-brown mashed potato “Turkey,” complete with a celery and carrot stick fantail, black olive eyes, and a sundried-tomato gobbler. It was priceless! Our staff gathered together over Saigon's best China (paper plates and mismatched forks) and between mouthfuls, we share stories of the first Thanksgiving and the friendship between the Pilgrims and Native Americans. To top off the dinner, Jonathon had made both pumpkin AND sweet potato pie and served it with fresh whipped topping. Bellies were seriously bursting by the meal's end. A Kiwi-Thanksgiving success!
On my first weekend off, I decided to go for an afternoon hike with three of my work friends, John, Jonathon, and Angie. John, having worked in Milford before, knew about a local secret trail which leads to the top of Bowen Falls, the Energizer Bunny of waterfalls in Milford. This is because firstly, it's flow generates enough electricity to supply Milford in its entirety. And secondly, it just keeps going and going and going, unlike the thousands of waterfalls that seem to magically appear whenever there's rain. Given that it was the first sunny and dry day in about a weeks time, the four of us were eager to tromp around, up, and through the dense and sodden rain forest.
The trail entrance was camouflaged and nearly impossible to spot. But, once discovered, we had John leading the way yelling, “Mud!” or “Branch!” as our sneakers squished through the soggy trail and dew-dropped leaves and fern fronds brushed our calves. We skipped (carefully...) over rocky streams and crept Spiderman-like through nearly vertical “V” shaped mountain sides. Then, we really started climbing! Ropes had been secured to trees and rocks in years past, and we were scaling up the side of the mountain, gripping fiercely to the ropes and praying that they wouldn't break or slip loose. I felt like an Amazon warrior woman! with a photographic edge.
After tramping our way up the bush, we came to the Pipeline which carries water from the top of Bowen Falls to the hydro-electric building at the base of the mountain. There was more rope and metal rods here to assist our climb, and eventually we just balanced our way to the top using the Pipeline as our cylindrical walkway.
Eventually, we reached the river that fed into Bowen Falls and began to make our way down-stream, hopping over boulders and splashing through the swift currents. Another short trek through the bush led us straight to where the river becomes waterfall – the majestic Bowen Falls. The view from the lookout was just spectacular! I could see the multicolored foreshore with it's greens and browns and blues, the silhouette of Mitre Peak, and the seemingly endless passage of water that winds it's way through the Milford Sound. I could have stayed up there for hours.
The next day, I walked to the foreshore with Jonathon and Leo to fly my stunt kite in the steady day breeze. We named my kite “Kea” after one of the native birds of the area. The colors of the kite and the colors of the Kea's wings are very similar so it seemed like a fitting name for my sky-high toy. With a backdrop of glacier carved mountains and the dark flow of water making its way out to the Tasman Sea, I'd have to say this is one of the most eye-appealing places that I've had the opportunity to practice flying my kite. It absolutely made my day!
After such a refreshing weekend filled with a rain forest tramp and some excellent hours of kite flying, it seemed like perfect timing to start giving some major thanks for the blessings I've had over the past year. And what better way to do that then with a proper Thanksgiving feast! My two fellow American co-workers, Jonathon from California and Crystal from Alaska, took over the meal preparations as I had begrudgingly come down with a nasty, energy zapping bug. But, there was no WAY I was missing out on this year's Thanksgiving celebration!
First and foremost, I have to give mad props to Jonathon and Crystal for their incredible Thanksgiving cooking! The table was piled high with dressing, meatballs, gravy, veggies and dip, and of course, the center piece – a golden-brown mashed potato “Turkey,” complete with a celery and carrot stick fantail, black olive eyes, and a sundried-tomato gobbler. It was priceless! Our staff gathered together over Saigon's best China (paper plates and mismatched forks) and between mouthfuls, we share stories of the first Thanksgiving and the friendship between the Pilgrims and Native Americans. To top off the dinner, Jonathon had made both pumpkin AND sweet potato pie and served it with fresh whipped topping. Bellies were seriously bursting by the meal's end. A Kiwi-Thanksgiving success!
Wednesday, November 17
My Itchy Milford Bubble
I've written before about the joys of hitch hiking in New Zealand (and it's obvious financial benefits...), but I've never really expanded much on some of the interesting folk I have had the pleasure to meet! Allow me to enlighten you...
From Dunedin, I decided to hitch to Queenstown – pretty much going from the far east of the South Island to the (almost) far west. On this particular hitching expedition, I was tucked neatly and snuggly into the backseat of a rental car with two slightly over middle-aged Australian women and their floral-print luggage. During this two and a half hour venture, I chatted gaily with Fay and Margee and learned of their life in Oz, their weekly neighborhood dinner parties, and their happy families. The two ladies had been friends since childhood and recounted numerous stories of their mischievous and laughter-filled lives as playful youngsters. Along the way, we stopped at an information centre and while washing my hands in the ladies restroom, I learned from Fay that Margee had been diagnosed with terminal cancer with a prediction of about 12 months to live. After her diagnosis, Margee decided to tour the world – and invited her friends and family along with her! Margee had just returned from a trip in Europe and had a trip to Asia and the USA already penned in the calendar. My heart both ached and awed for this vibrant woman. She was a real-life Bucket List Lady! This special hitching-ride was both humbling and inspiring. Yet another God-winking reminder to always live life to the fullest and love those close to you without abandon. Love and grateful energies coming your way.
Now, Queenstown is a place known to tourists for adrenaline, pub crawls, and Fergburgers. In other words, a fabulous place for tourists alike to empty their jean pockets of coinage until there's nothing left but a tuft of blue lint. I however, dipped into the less touristy side of Elizabeth's title town. After spending my first day lounged out on the hostel deck with a novel in hand and Lauren dozing nearby in the next chair (the both of us determined to kick our colds in the bum before they got the best of us), I spent the next afternoon hiking up Queenstown Hill. The view of the blue lake and surrounding mountains was lovely; up, up and away from the touristy hustle and bustle of the lake hugging town. That same evening, I was able to connect with three of my “old” NZ friends – two of which I had worked with in Paihia back in March! Hugo and Helen had the honors of introducing me to my first Fergburger. From the way I had heard people talk about the infamous Fergburger, I wouldn't have been surprised if a beam of yellow light illuminated the paper bag it came in, and I heard heavenly angels singing! Of course, I ordered the veggie option, the “Bun Laden” - a whale of a burger with Falafel and every imaginable topping. After dominating this well-known after-bar-close burger, I almost expected to receive a certificate to take home with me, stating proudly, “FERGBURGER. BEEN THERE, ATE THAT.”
While in Queenstown, I organized a WWOOFing job in the Milford Sounds, an easily accessible yet remote spot in the Fiordland National Park. “Milford City” has a population fluctuating from about 200 people per day (working staff sticking around for the season) to 4,200 (!!!) during the height of summer when tourist-jammed coach buses, camper vans, and Milford Track trampers come pouring in to glimpse the magic and beauty of the Fiords. After WWOOFing for just 2 days, I was offered a full-time Receptionist/Housekeeper position at the Milford Sound Lodge (MSL), a buzzing place as the sole open-to-the-public accommodation center in Milford. Unfortunately, it's not just buzzing with travelers but also the dreaded New Zealand pest – the Sandfly. These little biters stop at nothing to make your life (and work) miserable. Not to mention waking up in the middle of the night to scratch your ankles silly. The entire area is teeming with them! They are, by far, the biggest downside to being in Milford.
With a few days to mull over my decision to join the MSL staff, I kept busy WWOOFing (making beds, scrubbing bathroom floors, removing the magically reappearing cobwebs, etc...) and saw more of the Fiordlands via cruise boat and sea-kayak – complements of being a WWOOFer! As a temperate rain forest, Milford receives around 7 METERS of rain per year! The great part about it, though, is that the area is gob-smackingly beautiful come rain or shine. When it rains, waterfalls cascade down steep rocky cliffs out of which sprouts any type of greenery that can stick to the near vertical sides. The water is deep and dark, carved out God-knows how many years ago by turtle-paced glaciers; snowy remnants of which you can still see amongst the mountains. On my cruise, my boat went far enough out to see the Tasman Sea, and, on it's return, we spotted numerous adolescent male seals lounging in the sun and a small cluster of dolphins dipping in and out and back in the water's surface. My sea-kayaking tour took place within the same Fiords, but was an entirely different experience altogether! The sky-scaling cliffs create a kind of optical illusion. Because of their incredible height (Mitre Peak reaches up 1692 meters!), they tease your mind into severely underestimating distances. What looks like a jutting boulder about a 30 minute paddle away takes twice, if not three times, as long. The Fiords are a place where a 300 passenger cruise boat look like a child's bathtub toy and airplanes looks like model planes in flight. Talk about humbling! While kayaking, we took an impromptu shower under the stunning Sterling Falls and witnessed penguins bobbing merrily along through the water. And, surfing the 3-5 foot waves (it was an unusually rough paddling day) with my sea-kayak partner was definitely a highlight to the trip. Just a small perk to having one of the kayak guides steer your boat!
In the end, I did choose to accept the position at MSL and started my new job this past Sunday! The staff here is really like a little family away from family. Everyone (ranging from 8-12 people on any given day) gathers for dinner in Saigon (the staff dining and chillaxing crib), and the homemade meals range from fresh Italian style pizza to Thai curries – it's like eating out at your favorite restaurant with friends every day! Plus, I've been diligently practicing and playing the acoustic guitar daily and am attending local yoga classes with a few work mates during the week. Given the remoteness of Milford, I had to take a 2 hour bus ride to the nearest town last weekend just to buy toothpaste and shampoo! But, when it comes down to it, little itty bitty Milford is really just a sweet place to be – my wonderful, itchy Milford bubble.
From Dunedin, I decided to hitch to Queenstown – pretty much going from the far east of the South Island to the (almost) far west. On this particular hitching expedition, I was tucked neatly and snuggly into the backseat of a rental car with two slightly over middle-aged Australian women and their floral-print luggage. During this two and a half hour venture, I chatted gaily with Fay and Margee and learned of their life in Oz, their weekly neighborhood dinner parties, and their happy families. The two ladies had been friends since childhood and recounted numerous stories of their mischievous and laughter-filled lives as playful youngsters. Along the way, we stopped at an information centre and while washing my hands in the ladies restroom, I learned from Fay that Margee had been diagnosed with terminal cancer with a prediction of about 12 months to live. After her diagnosis, Margee decided to tour the world – and invited her friends and family along with her! Margee had just returned from a trip in Europe and had a trip to Asia and the USA already penned in the calendar. My heart both ached and awed for this vibrant woman. She was a real-life Bucket List Lady! This special hitching-ride was both humbling and inspiring. Yet another God-winking reminder to always live life to the fullest and love those close to you without abandon. Love and grateful energies coming your way.
Now, Queenstown is a place known to tourists for adrenaline, pub crawls, and Fergburgers. In other words, a fabulous place for tourists alike to empty their jean pockets of coinage until there's nothing left but a tuft of blue lint. I however, dipped into the less touristy side of Elizabeth's title town. After spending my first day lounged out on the hostel deck with a novel in hand and Lauren dozing nearby in the next chair (the both of us determined to kick our colds in the bum before they got the best of us), I spent the next afternoon hiking up Queenstown Hill. The view of the blue lake and surrounding mountains was lovely; up, up and away from the touristy hustle and bustle of the lake hugging town. That same evening, I was able to connect with three of my “old” NZ friends – two of which I had worked with in Paihia back in March! Hugo and Helen had the honors of introducing me to my first Fergburger. From the way I had heard people talk about the infamous Fergburger, I wouldn't have been surprised if a beam of yellow light illuminated the paper bag it came in, and I heard heavenly angels singing! Of course, I ordered the veggie option, the “Bun Laden” - a whale of a burger with Falafel and every imaginable topping. After dominating this well-known after-bar-close burger, I almost expected to receive a certificate to take home with me, stating proudly, “FERGBURGER. BEEN THERE, ATE THAT.”
While in Queenstown, I organized a WWOOFing job in the Milford Sounds, an easily accessible yet remote spot in the Fiordland National Park. “Milford City” has a population fluctuating from about 200 people per day (working staff sticking around for the season) to 4,200 (!!!) during the height of summer when tourist-jammed coach buses, camper vans, and Milford Track trampers come pouring in to glimpse the magic and beauty of the Fiords. After WWOOFing for just 2 days, I was offered a full-time Receptionist/Housekeeper position at the Milford Sound Lodge (MSL), a buzzing place as the sole open-to-the-public accommodation center in Milford. Unfortunately, it's not just buzzing with travelers but also the dreaded New Zealand pest – the Sandfly. These little biters stop at nothing to make your life (and work) miserable. Not to mention waking up in the middle of the night to scratch your ankles silly. The entire area is teeming with them! They are, by far, the biggest downside to being in Milford.
With a few days to mull over my decision to join the MSL staff, I kept busy WWOOFing (making beds, scrubbing bathroom floors, removing the magically reappearing cobwebs, etc...) and saw more of the Fiordlands via cruise boat and sea-kayak – complements of being a WWOOFer! As a temperate rain forest, Milford receives around 7 METERS of rain per year! The great part about it, though, is that the area is gob-smackingly beautiful come rain or shine. When it rains, waterfalls cascade down steep rocky cliffs out of which sprouts any type of greenery that can stick to the near vertical sides. The water is deep and dark, carved out God-knows how many years ago by turtle-paced glaciers; snowy remnants of which you can still see amongst the mountains. On my cruise, my boat went far enough out to see the Tasman Sea, and, on it's return, we spotted numerous adolescent male seals lounging in the sun and a small cluster of dolphins dipping in and out and back in the water's surface. My sea-kayaking tour took place within the same Fiords, but was an entirely different experience altogether! The sky-scaling cliffs create a kind of optical illusion. Because of their incredible height (Mitre Peak reaches up 1692 meters!), they tease your mind into severely underestimating distances. What looks like a jutting boulder about a 30 minute paddle away takes twice, if not three times, as long. The Fiords are a place where a 300 passenger cruise boat look like a child's bathtub toy and airplanes looks like model planes in flight. Talk about humbling! While kayaking, we took an impromptu shower under the stunning Sterling Falls and witnessed penguins bobbing merrily along through the water. And, surfing the 3-5 foot waves (it was an unusually rough paddling day) with my sea-kayak partner was definitely a highlight to the trip. Just a small perk to having one of the kayak guides steer your boat!
In the end, I did choose to accept the position at MSL and started my new job this past Sunday! The staff here is really like a little family away from family. Everyone (ranging from 8-12 people on any given day) gathers for dinner in Saigon (the staff dining and chillaxing crib), and the homemade meals range from fresh Italian style pizza to Thai curries – it's like eating out at your favorite restaurant with friends every day! Plus, I've been diligently practicing and playing the acoustic guitar daily and am attending local yoga classes with a few work mates during the week. Given the remoteness of Milford, I had to take a 2 hour bus ride to the nearest town last weekend just to buy toothpaste and shampoo! But, when it comes down to it, little itty bitty Milford is really just a sweet place to be – my wonderful, itchy Milford bubble.
Sunday, October 31
Rail Trail Tales
After Oamaru, I based myself in Dunedin – a vibrant university city swarming with students from all over the world! I couchsurfed for my first two nights in a house with five of the aforementioned students - three Kiwi guys and two American gals. This crazy family brought me straight back into memories of college living, complete with messy university housing, cheap evening entertainment at a local stand-up comedy venue, and a late night out at the university bar. Let the good times roll!
As a result of staying with these cool cats, I was offered free use of a mountain bike for my venture on the Otago Central Rail Trail! In fact, the Rail Trail is one of the top “101 Must Dos for Kiwis” so I was more than eager to begin! The 300+ kilometer ride from Middlemarch to Clyde back to Middlemarch was my watered down substitute to my original idea of a South Island bike tour.
From Dunedin to Middlemarch, I took the train along the scenic Taieri Gorge with my new-found Pennsylvanian friend Lauren. From Middlemarch, I bid Lauren farewell and set out on my bum-numbing six day ride. Wahoo!! :-D
And bum-numbing it was. Not to mention unforeseen challenges such dive-bombing magpies and the mighty & unrelenting headwinds. Those tuxedo clad birds are nothing less than the spawn of the devil... There I'd be, cruising along the graveled trail with mountains and rolling farmland on both sides, the sheep and cows pausing in their constant state of mastication to stare wide-eyed at this imposing cyclist, when SWOOSH! The wings of a magpie come within inches of my head, and my heartbeat skyrockets with a rush of adrenaline to propel me as quickly as possible away from THAT DAMN BIRD.
But even the demon magpies and the remarkable headwind (sometimes I felt as though I were cycling in slow motion - Bay Watch meets Tour de France!) wasn't enough to dampen my spirits. The peaceful scenery among the Central Otago region was a lovely accompaniment to the constant crunching sounds of slippery gravel under the grind of my spinning wheels. I averaged between 55-60 kilometers per day, staying the night at Holiday Parks or hostels and treating myself to scrumptious dinners in the evening.
When all was said and cycled, I took the train back to Dunedin – this time catching some Zzz's instead of enjoying the scenic vista – and was happily reunited with my friend Lauren! The next day, I joined Lauren, along with two other backpackers, Daniel and Angela, to explore the Otago Peninsula – an area well-known for the world's only mainland royal albatross colony, yellow-eyed penguins, massive sea lions, and WIND. The four of us decided to brave Sandfly Bay – a beach named not for the nasty biting sandfly but instead for the wind-bludgeoning* sand that literally pelts the poor bodies of anyone silly enough to cross the treacherous bay. And, well, we were silly enough. We spent our afternoon dodging lazy sea lions and trying to stay upright against the wind while attempting (without much success, might I add) to keep the sand from flying up our nose and out our ears. It was challenging, satisfying, and gritty fun!
Halloween was rather uneventful as the Kiwis don't much celebrate the holiday with the same gusto as Americans. Instead, I went out for sushi (Ooo! Dead fish...spooky!) and joined my friends for a suspenseful movie to mark the occasion. Happy belated Halloween!
* Phrase borrowed without permission from Lauren Sicher :-) Cheers! xx
As a result of staying with these cool cats, I was offered free use of a mountain bike for my venture on the Otago Central Rail Trail! In fact, the Rail Trail is one of the top “101 Must Dos for Kiwis” so I was more than eager to begin! The 300+ kilometer ride from Middlemarch to Clyde back to Middlemarch was my watered down substitute to my original idea of a South Island bike tour.
From Dunedin to Middlemarch, I took the train along the scenic Taieri Gorge with my new-found Pennsylvanian friend Lauren. From Middlemarch, I bid Lauren farewell and set out on my bum-numbing six day ride. Wahoo!! :-D
And bum-numbing it was. Not to mention unforeseen challenges such dive-bombing magpies and the mighty & unrelenting headwinds. Those tuxedo clad birds are nothing less than the spawn of the devil... There I'd be, cruising along the graveled trail with mountains and rolling farmland on both sides, the sheep and cows pausing in their constant state of mastication to stare wide-eyed at this imposing cyclist, when SWOOSH! The wings of a magpie come within inches of my head, and my heartbeat skyrockets with a rush of adrenaline to propel me as quickly as possible away from THAT DAMN BIRD.
But even the demon magpies and the remarkable headwind (sometimes I felt as though I were cycling in slow motion - Bay Watch meets Tour de France!) wasn't enough to dampen my spirits. The peaceful scenery among the Central Otago region was a lovely accompaniment to the constant crunching sounds of slippery gravel under the grind of my spinning wheels. I averaged between 55-60 kilometers per day, staying the night at Holiday Parks or hostels and treating myself to scrumptious dinners in the evening.
When all was said and cycled, I took the train back to Dunedin – this time catching some Zzz's instead of enjoying the scenic vista – and was happily reunited with my friend Lauren! The next day, I joined Lauren, along with two other backpackers, Daniel and Angela, to explore the Otago Peninsula – an area well-known for the world's only mainland royal albatross colony, yellow-eyed penguins, massive sea lions, and WIND. The four of us decided to brave Sandfly Bay – a beach named not for the nasty biting sandfly but instead for the wind-bludgeoning* sand that literally pelts the poor bodies of anyone silly enough to cross the treacherous bay. And, well, we were silly enough. We spent our afternoon dodging lazy sea lions and trying to stay upright against the wind while attempting (without much success, might I add) to keep the sand from flying up our nose and out our ears. It was challenging, satisfying, and gritty fun!
Halloween was rather uneventful as the Kiwis don't much celebrate the holiday with the same gusto as Americans. Instead, I went out for sushi (Ooo! Dead fish...spooky!) and joined my friends for a suspenseful movie to mark the occasion. Happy belated Halloween!
* Phrase borrowed without permission from Lauren Sicher :-) Cheers! xx
Monday, October 18
An Island of Mystic Spaces
If you looked at a map of the South Island, Lake Tekapo looks like God took his almighty thumb and fingerprinted himself smack dab in the centre of the Island. And good gracious, if God ever did get fingerprinted, Lake Tekapo is a fairly spectacular way of thumbing the earth. First off, the water is dyed a brilliant, opaque turquoise which only adds to the awe of the sky slicing mountains that boarder one long side of the lake. Sift on a bit of the icy cold white stuff to coat the mountain tips, and that, my friends, is just the icing on the cake.
I bussed to Tekapo to visit my friend Hugo and his girlfriend Helen who were superb hosts during my weekend stay. My weekend activities included hiking to the summit of Mt. John (and enjoying the awesome 360 degree panoramic views), soaking in the outdoor hot pools (during the only snow storm flurry that I've seen since I left Wisconsin), and attending a Sunday evening service at the quaint Church of the Good Shepard. Company of friends combined with a scenic beauty overload made for a delightful and relaxing weekend.
From Tekapo, I hitched to Oamaru where I was to begin WWOOFing at Chillawhile Backpackers where I was more than happy to just, well, chill a while. The hostel is a hodgepodge of art displays, heart-thumping music, miss-matching comforters and pillow cases, half-tuned instruments, and backyard clothes lines which are consistently hidden under billowing sheets, clothes, and towels drying in the sunshine.
As far as the town goes, there's not so much to see besides the semi-restored, semi-rundown historical district and the infamous blue-penguin and yellow-eyed penguin colonies. I've gone for several walks and, without much help from the windy coast, tried flying my brand-new stunt kite in the park just in front of the backpackers. So, to mix things up a bit, I contacted a fellow Couchsurfer, 50-something year old Peter, a history buff and Otago area tour guide extraordinaire.
So, on a cloudy Friday afternoon, Peter drove and talked me all the way to the Moeraki Boulders, nearly 40 km south of Oamaru. This well-visited beach site is home to a set of round, massive rocks that have settled into the sand. And lucky for us, we arrived at low tide so you could really see just how unique the boulders were. They honestly look as though they are a set of Giant's Marbles, scattered carelessly on the beach. I've never seen anything like it and was quite captivated.
The Moeraki Boulders were only the beginning of an afternoon of intriguing sites that Peter took me too. Just a bit farther up the road, we tried to catch a glimpse of yellow-eyed penguins, but didn't see more than a few tubby fur-seals. Then, a drive through some less traveled roads between Highway-85 and Highway-83 brought about some goose-flesh tingling scenery. In a pasture dubbed “The Vanishing World,” I spotted honey-combed, limestone rock and a protected ancient whale fossil. It's no wonder the jagged cliffs of limestone and lush green pastures of the area brought out the film-makers of the movie “Narnia – the Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.” I was able to visit one filming spot in particular, the site of the Elephant Rocks, where gynormous limestone rocks have settled after having been elegantly carved by wind, rain, and rivers. The naturally calming site is so-named for the way in which some of the rocks actually do resemble giant elephants. It's as though Medusa came by, with all her wrath, and looked an entire herd of elephants point-blank in the eye. Whadya know – stoned for life.
Over the weekend, Peter and I met up again to go penguin-spotting near the wharf. It was drizzling lightly and dark (most of the blue-penguins come up to check on their nests around 8pm after the sun's sunk beneath the horizon) but we spotted nearly 30 penguins! They were huddled under branches by the rocky coast or waddling down the wharf. We even caught a couple mating under the street light (not very inconspicuous of them...) and got lucky enough to glimpse a baby penguin crouched and trembling outside it's nest. Peter told me that he's never seen that many penguins by the wharf before, so I was uber lucky! But, as cute as they are, these little fellows create quite a racket and smell like a dumpster load of rotting fish. Thus, I was more then happy to leave the waddling tuxedos for the comfort (and exceedingly nicer smelling) lounge of Chillawhile with a novel, comfy chair, and blazing heater to boot!
I bussed to Tekapo to visit my friend Hugo and his girlfriend Helen who were superb hosts during my weekend stay. My weekend activities included hiking to the summit of Mt. John (and enjoying the awesome 360 degree panoramic views), soaking in the outdoor hot pools (during the only snow storm flurry that I've seen since I left Wisconsin), and attending a Sunday evening service at the quaint Church of the Good Shepard. Company of friends combined with a scenic beauty overload made for a delightful and relaxing weekend.
From Tekapo, I hitched to Oamaru where I was to begin WWOOFing at Chillawhile Backpackers where I was more than happy to just, well, chill a while. The hostel is a hodgepodge of art displays, heart-thumping music, miss-matching comforters and pillow cases, half-tuned instruments, and backyard clothes lines which are consistently hidden under billowing sheets, clothes, and towels drying in the sunshine.
As far as the town goes, there's not so much to see besides the semi-restored, semi-rundown historical district and the infamous blue-penguin and yellow-eyed penguin colonies. I've gone for several walks and, without much help from the windy coast, tried flying my brand-new stunt kite in the park just in front of the backpackers. So, to mix things up a bit, I contacted a fellow Couchsurfer, 50-something year old Peter, a history buff and Otago area tour guide extraordinaire.
So, on a cloudy Friday afternoon, Peter drove and talked me all the way to the Moeraki Boulders, nearly 40 km south of Oamaru. This well-visited beach site is home to a set of round, massive rocks that have settled into the sand. And lucky for us, we arrived at low tide so you could really see just how unique the boulders were. They honestly look as though they are a set of Giant's Marbles, scattered carelessly on the beach. I've never seen anything like it and was quite captivated.
The Moeraki Boulders were only the beginning of an afternoon of intriguing sites that Peter took me too. Just a bit farther up the road, we tried to catch a glimpse of yellow-eyed penguins, but didn't see more than a few tubby fur-seals. Then, a drive through some less traveled roads between Highway-85 and Highway-83 brought about some goose-flesh tingling scenery. In a pasture dubbed “The Vanishing World,” I spotted honey-combed, limestone rock and a protected ancient whale fossil. It's no wonder the jagged cliffs of limestone and lush green pastures of the area brought out the film-makers of the movie “Narnia – the Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.” I was able to visit one filming spot in particular, the site of the Elephant Rocks, where gynormous limestone rocks have settled after having been elegantly carved by wind, rain, and rivers. The naturally calming site is so-named for the way in which some of the rocks actually do resemble giant elephants. It's as though Medusa came by, with all her wrath, and looked an entire herd of elephants point-blank in the eye. Whadya know – stoned for life.
Over the weekend, Peter and I met up again to go penguin-spotting near the wharf. It was drizzling lightly and dark (most of the blue-penguins come up to check on their nests around 8pm after the sun's sunk beneath the horizon) but we spotted nearly 30 penguins! They were huddled under branches by the rocky coast or waddling down the wharf. We even caught a couple mating under the street light (not very inconspicuous of them...) and got lucky enough to glimpse a baby penguin crouched and trembling outside it's nest. Peter told me that he's never seen that many penguins by the wharf before, so I was uber lucky! But, as cute as they are, these little fellows create quite a racket and smell like a dumpster load of rotting fish. Thus, I was more then happy to leave the waddling tuxedos for the comfort (and exceedingly nicer smelling) lounge of Chillawhile with a novel, comfy chair, and blazing heater to boot!
Thursday, October 7
Sport 101 (with an Aussie flair)
I had a relaxing and enjoyable stay in Kaikoura but was eager to move on to the earth shaken city of Christchurch where I would get the chance to visit some long-time family friends of mine – Gail & Steve and Katie & Mark from Australia. I've been staying with Katie and Mark in Rolleston and having a smashing time! I've been expanding my Australian vocabulary with words like “Poofter” and phrases such as “Getting the shits” but, just as importantly, having a significant number of Kiwi/Aussie sport related cultural experiences! All of which have been top notch :-) Let me divulge.
Mark and Katie are originally from Australia, but moved to Christchurch over a year ago so that Mark could pursue his career as a race commentator – harness racing that is. This sport is quite popular in New Zealand, and Mark ranks very high as one of New Zealand's best race callers. With Katie as my guide, we watched one race high up in the stands. There are typically about 10 races per day and each race seems to take place in about 10 blinks of an eye. It's quick! We were watching the Trots form of racing, where the drivers ride and steer from a carriage pulled by the horse. The races begin with a mobile start meaning that the horses are already running when they cross the “start” line. There's a lot to the race that I have yet to understand, but it was still exciting to watch! We watched a second race from the sidelines – up close and personal! You couldn't get any closer to the race without risking getting mowed over by the thundering beasts. And, for my third race, I got VIP access to the commenter box (aka Mark's office). It helps being friends with people up top! From here I got a full view of the race track and even got to watch Mark as he called out during the race and announced the winners at the end. If only I had placed a bet or two...
Over the weekend, I had my first lesson on the sport Rugby League via television with two Australian teams dueling for the big win - the Roosters verses the Dragons. Now, Rugby LEAGUE rules are quite different from Rugby UNION rules. I'm not going to bore you with all the differences (mostly, because I don't really know them...) but let me just say that League rules are much simpler and easier to follow.
* WARNING – THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT MAY NOT BE SUITABLE TO SOME AUDIENCES *
I like Rugby League more than American Football.
And here's why: Because it flows. It seems to me like football has too many timeouts and whistle blowing and clock stopping. Rugby, however, is like the Energizer Bunny. It just keeps going and going and going. And I like that. Plus, you can actually SEE the players as well. They're not all decked out in padding and helmets. Just good, ol' fashioned short shorts. Yeah, rugby wins :-)
And then there's netball. I learned the basics to this English sport last summer, but after some superb coaching from Katie, watching netball during the Commonwealth Games broadcast, and a 10-minute Netball boot camp, I made my NZ YMCA Netball Club debut! I crossed my fingers that I wouldn't bomb too much and put on my Wing Attack (WA) jersey. Turns out my 8th grade basketball skills came in handy, and I didn't do half bad! Not having to worry about dribbling the ball was a big bonus since I never did quite master that skill. And I only got penalized by the ref twice for stepping out of my designated “Wing Attack Area.” All in all, I had a darn good time out on the court!
Nevertheless, sports isn't the only thing that's been rocking in Christchurch. Aftershocks have been rippling through the city quite frequently since the 7.1 earthquake on September 4th. In fact, over 1,000 aftershocks have been recorded in the past month. It's been pretty common for me to be sitting in the house or lying in bed when all of a sudden I hear a dull roar and feel the entire house vibrate beneath my feet. The biggest one I've experienced here was scaled at 5.0 and the epicentre was just about 5-10km out of Rolleston. And even though I never get used to them (they take me by surprise every time), I kind of expect it now. Call me crazy, but I actually think it's pretty cool feeling the earth shift and settle right beneath my toes. You're completely at Mother Nature's mercy. Thus, I've come acknowledge each aftershock as a “count my blessings” reminder. A million blessings and counting! :-D
Mark and Katie are originally from Australia, but moved to Christchurch over a year ago so that Mark could pursue his career as a race commentator – harness racing that is. This sport is quite popular in New Zealand, and Mark ranks very high as one of New Zealand's best race callers. With Katie as my guide, we watched one race high up in the stands. There are typically about 10 races per day and each race seems to take place in about 10 blinks of an eye. It's quick! We were watching the Trots form of racing, where the drivers ride and steer from a carriage pulled by the horse. The races begin with a mobile start meaning that the horses are already running when they cross the “start” line. There's a lot to the race that I have yet to understand, but it was still exciting to watch! We watched a second race from the sidelines – up close and personal! You couldn't get any closer to the race without risking getting mowed over by the thundering beasts. And, for my third race, I got VIP access to the commenter box (aka Mark's office). It helps being friends with people up top! From here I got a full view of the race track and even got to watch Mark as he called out during the race and announced the winners at the end. If only I had placed a bet or two...
Over the weekend, I had my first lesson on the sport Rugby League via television with two Australian teams dueling for the big win - the Roosters verses the Dragons. Now, Rugby LEAGUE rules are quite different from Rugby UNION rules. I'm not going to bore you with all the differences (mostly, because I don't really know them...) but let me just say that League rules are much simpler and easier to follow.
* WARNING – THE FOLLOWING STATEMENT MAY NOT BE SUITABLE TO SOME AUDIENCES *
I like Rugby League more than American Football.
And here's why: Because it flows. It seems to me like football has too many timeouts and whistle blowing and clock stopping. Rugby, however, is like the Energizer Bunny. It just keeps going and going and going. And I like that. Plus, you can actually SEE the players as well. They're not all decked out in padding and helmets. Just good, ol' fashioned short shorts. Yeah, rugby wins :-)
And then there's netball. I learned the basics to this English sport last summer, but after some superb coaching from Katie, watching netball during the Commonwealth Games broadcast, and a 10-minute Netball boot camp, I made my NZ YMCA Netball Club debut! I crossed my fingers that I wouldn't bomb too much and put on my Wing Attack (WA) jersey. Turns out my 8th grade basketball skills came in handy, and I didn't do half bad! Not having to worry about dribbling the ball was a big bonus since I never did quite master that skill. And I only got penalized by the ref twice for stepping out of my designated “Wing Attack Area.” All in all, I had a darn good time out on the court!
Nevertheless, sports isn't the only thing that's been rocking in Christchurch. Aftershocks have been rippling through the city quite frequently since the 7.1 earthquake on September 4th. In fact, over 1,000 aftershocks have been recorded in the past month. It's been pretty common for me to be sitting in the house or lying in bed when all of a sudden I hear a dull roar and feel the entire house vibrate beneath my feet. The biggest one I've experienced here was scaled at 5.0 and the epicentre was just about 5-10km out of Rolleston. And even though I never get used to them (they take me by surprise every time), I kind of expect it now. Call me crazy, but I actually think it's pretty cool feeling the earth shift and settle right beneath my toes. You're completely at Mother Nature's mercy. Thus, I've come acknowledge each aftershock as a “count my blessings” reminder. A million blessings and counting! :-D
Saturday, September 25
The Grandeur of Kaikoura
There aren't many places on earth where sea waves kiss sky scraping mountains. But, wouldn't ya know – New Zealand has one of those very special places. Taking the Transcoastal Railway, I arrived in the east coastal town of Kaikoura – cute and cozy with jaw dropping views and a variety of wildlife to feast your already wide-eyes upon. Here, I settled into my Turkish styled dorm room at the Albatross Hostel (a backpackers complete with organic, fair trade hot chocolate, numerous instruments, and the perfectly pillowed reading spot). This place was right up my alley :-)
I only spent one full day in Kaikoura and was told that visiting the seal colony and walking the Kaikoura Peninsula was a must (along with helicopter whale watching...maybe when money starts sprouting out my ears. So, taking this wise advice, I set out for a morning-afternoon hike. I just couldn't seem to get enough of the mountain view. The contrast of the snow on the peaks and the dark bouldered base was just spectacular. Add in the pebbled beach and endless blue horizon and it was, well, almighty.
When I reached the seal colony, I wouldn't have had to go any further than the parking lot to spot seals. And, as luck would have it, they were young seal pups! Gosh darn they were cute though - all spunky and curious surrounded by a handful of tourists “Ooo-ing” and “Aww-ing” and snapping photos. I wanted to take one home with me (seal pup, not a tourist). But, when I ventured further out in the colony, I passed a few of the Big Mamas and Papas. They weren't as friendly – territorial and sleepy was more like it. So, x-nay on the seal pet idea...
The rest of the walk around the peninsula was lovely. The jagged limestone coast was a stunning boarder to the turquoise seas. I tramped by some cud-munching cows who may have been a bit annoyed by my presence, so I scooted by quickly. And, throughout the entire walk, I'd often look out into the waters and squint to see if I could spot any whales. Wishful thinking perhaps...
I only spent one full day in Kaikoura and was told that visiting the seal colony and walking the Kaikoura Peninsula was a must (along with helicopter whale watching...maybe when money starts sprouting out my ears. So, taking this wise advice, I set out for a morning-afternoon hike. I just couldn't seem to get enough of the mountain view. The contrast of the snow on the peaks and the dark bouldered base was just spectacular. Add in the pebbled beach and endless blue horizon and it was, well, almighty.
When I reached the seal colony, I wouldn't have had to go any further than the parking lot to spot seals. And, as luck would have it, they were young seal pups! Gosh darn they were cute though - all spunky and curious surrounded by a handful of tourists “Ooo-ing” and “Aww-ing” and snapping photos. I wanted to take one home with me (seal pup, not a tourist). But, when I ventured further out in the colony, I passed a few of the Big Mamas and Papas. They weren't as friendly – territorial and sleepy was more like it. So, x-nay on the seal pet idea...
The rest of the walk around the peninsula was lovely. The jagged limestone coast was a stunning boarder to the turquoise seas. I tramped by some cud-munching cows who may have been a bit annoyed by my presence, so I scooted by quickly. And, throughout the entire walk, I'd often look out into the waters and squint to see if I could spot any whales. Wishful thinking perhaps...
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