Just one year ago, I landed in a country halfway across the world. Even now, it's hard for me to fully comprehend. I've lived the last 365 days out of a backpack weighing approximately 20 kg. My backpack has been my constant travel companion. She's seen all and heard everything; been zipped and unzipped Lord knows how many times. I imagine that my travel worn clothes have had endless tea parties neatly rolled and tucked snuggly within my green pack, jabbering and talking over one another about the views they saw from atop that one mountain and that fellow traveler they hugged goodbye in hopes of connecting again in another foreign place. Yeah, my backpack and I, we've had one hell of a year! But you know what the best part is? It's not over yet.
I spent my last week in New Zealand reconnecting with some really wonderful traveler friends of mine at Tombstone Backpackers in Picton. Per my request, the lovely Lynne and Gordon agreed to organize a pizza night at the hostel which is just one of the many hundreds of reasons why I love it there. No better way to spend my last weekend in NZ than with friendly faces and delicious eats.
In Christchurch, my final NZ stop, I stayed with Katie and Mark and learned more Aussie slang in last minute preparation for my next destination. (Anyone want to take a guess at what a “bum bag” is?) I also crammed my iPod full of music from GLEE which I found essential for the next leg of my travels. Man! A GLEE playlist and bum bag enlightenment - I am so well prepped for Oz! :-D
But, no matter how much I tried to prepare myself for my eminent departure, the fact that I was leaving just refused to sink in. New Zealand has been my home for the past year, and I've admittedly fallen in love with the Kiwi culture, the land, and its people. But, ready or not, NZ Immigration was gently untangling my tight embrace from its beloved islands. And, like a reluctant child unwilling to leave her mother for preschool, I boarded the plane to Australia. But, as every child soon realizes, the initial heartache of separation soon quiets, and the lure of the sandbox and creative play with friends brings you to a whole new world where new adventures await around every corner.
Tuesday, February 15
Wednesday, February 9
The Gold Treatment
I wouldn't dub it officially summer without a road trip. And, the best way to venture into the Golden Bay region of the South Island is by car mostly because there are loads of side roads and best-kept-secret spots only a few kilometers from the main road. So, with thoughts of exploration in mind, my friend Lorna and I rented a little car, rolled down the windows, and cranked up the tunes – it was time to cruise!
Our first detour off the main road had me maneuvering our tiny car along an 11km, windy, golden gravel road just barely scraping by the monstrous campervans coming at us from the other direction. But, we were on a mission – to see Harwood's Hole. After careful and successful passage down Canaan Road, a 45 minute walk through a white dusted forest, and a brief scramble over a few well balanced boulders, we found it. A bit hard to miss, this cave is the largest in the southern hemisphere at 400m deep and 70m wide, with a 183m vertical drop! Duly noted, however, was the obvious lack of any form of safety barrier between the boulders we perched on and big ass Hole (no pun intended). It was whooper. The granddaddy of all holes! The big Kahuna!! Okay, you get the picture.
Next, we arrived at the Te Waikoropupu (or Pupu for short) Springs, a sacred area for the native Maori people. This spring bubbled some of the clearest water I've ever seen, and perhaps the clearest in the world according to my Lonely Planet travel guide. Farther up the road, just opposite our camping grounds, is where we visited the Mussel Inn to sample their Freckled Frog Cider, a homemade brew made from an NZ grown fruit the Feijoa. It was delicious!
We spent the next two days tramping around the Farewell Spit and Wharariki Beach, even reaching the highest point of the South Island at Cape Farewell. The beaches and archways carved into the cliffs afforded some incredibly picturesque views – that is when we weren't squinting our eyes, heads bowed to the unrelenting wind that whipped and whirled the fine granules of sand into any welcoming orifice. It wasn't until we were safely sheltered from the brutal blasts of beach weather, that we realized how smooth our skin was. Apparently, all it takes is a few hours battling the elements of the Golden Bay for a free, full-bodied exfoliation. I can see it now:
Come to Golden Bay for the Gold Treatment!
Absolutely FREE!
*Only while weather lasts*
On the last morning of our road trip together, Lorna and I stumbled upon the best beach ever – the beach of Totaranui. Seriously, this place should have a blue “#1” ribbon just to prepare people for it's awesomeness. With golden sands, sapphire seas, and a brilliant yellow orb glowing out of a blue sky, this Abel Tasman National Park gem made us feel like we'd be doing the beach an injustice if we didn't crack open a brew and cheers to a fabulous road trip. Never mind that the time read “10:49AM.” Cheers! :-D
I spent two more days in Golden Bay with a fellow named John who, if I think really, really, really hard, I can remember playing on my mom and dad's softball team back in the 90's. John and his partner Brian were most hospitable, and I very much enjoyed my time with them!
Hitching back to Nelson, I had the good fortune of meeting Patrick, who is best described by his very own words: “an awesome bloke.” When Patrick found out that I didn't yet have a place to stay in Nelson, he offered to let me crash at his place for as long as I wished. As a fellow world backpacker, Patrick was happy to pay-it-forward for all the times he'd been helped out during his travels. And, I was delighted to be on the receiving end of his generous offer! Patrick was on his way back to Golden Bay that afternoon, meaning that I had the house all to myself. And, with only a 10 minute walk to the Tahuna Beach, I was happy as a clam! Two thumbs up for cool people.
I've been in Nelson for a week now and enjoying the benefits of a living in the eco-friendly New Zealand city. Nelson has a lovely city center with heaps of cool shops, coffee houses, and even a cathedral smack dab in the middle. Thus, I've been enjoying a relaxing few days of beach bumming in Tahuna, window shopping, lunching at the local eateries, and strolling the Saturday market with a paper bag full of fresh orchard cherries. I reunited with a Taupo friend of mine, Ivonne, and we've been keeping ourselves entertained by the Busker Street Festival, watching a French man on stilts puppeteer Pandora the human (and female) version of Pinocchio. We also attended the International Kai(*1) Festival which was full of enticing smells from food stands selling international specialties. Here, we participated in a Maori Hui(*2) welcoming us to the Nelson Marae(*3). It was beautifully done with speeches in Maori by the elders and ending with a Hungi(*4). So, if when I next see you, I grasp your hand and pull you in close in order to touch our foreheads and noses, don't be alarmed - you've just experienced a heart warming Hungi from me to you.
Learn a bit of Maori:
(*1) Kai - Maori for “food”
(*2) Hui - a Maori welcoming ceremony
(*3) Marea - a Maori meeting place
(*4) Hungi - a Maori greeting
Our first detour off the main road had me maneuvering our tiny car along an 11km, windy, golden gravel road just barely scraping by the monstrous campervans coming at us from the other direction. But, we were on a mission – to see Harwood's Hole. After careful and successful passage down Canaan Road, a 45 minute walk through a white dusted forest, and a brief scramble over a few well balanced boulders, we found it. A bit hard to miss, this cave is the largest in the southern hemisphere at 400m deep and 70m wide, with a 183m vertical drop! Duly noted, however, was the obvious lack of any form of safety barrier between the boulders we perched on and big ass Hole (no pun intended). It was whooper. The granddaddy of all holes! The big Kahuna!! Okay, you get the picture.
Next, we arrived at the Te Waikoropupu (or Pupu for short) Springs, a sacred area for the native Maori people. This spring bubbled some of the clearest water I've ever seen, and perhaps the clearest in the world according to my Lonely Planet travel guide. Farther up the road, just opposite our camping grounds, is where we visited the Mussel Inn to sample their Freckled Frog Cider, a homemade brew made from an NZ grown fruit the Feijoa. It was delicious!
We spent the next two days tramping around the Farewell Spit and Wharariki Beach, even reaching the highest point of the South Island at Cape Farewell. The beaches and archways carved into the cliffs afforded some incredibly picturesque views – that is when we weren't squinting our eyes, heads bowed to the unrelenting wind that whipped and whirled the fine granules of sand into any welcoming orifice. It wasn't until we were safely sheltered from the brutal blasts of beach weather, that we realized how smooth our skin was. Apparently, all it takes is a few hours battling the elements of the Golden Bay for a free, full-bodied exfoliation. I can see it now:
Come to Golden Bay for the Gold Treatment!
Absolutely FREE!
*Only while weather lasts*
On the last morning of our road trip together, Lorna and I stumbled upon the best beach ever – the beach of Totaranui. Seriously, this place should have a blue “#1” ribbon just to prepare people for it's awesomeness. With golden sands, sapphire seas, and a brilliant yellow orb glowing out of a blue sky, this Abel Tasman National Park gem made us feel like we'd be doing the beach an injustice if we didn't crack open a brew and cheers to a fabulous road trip. Never mind that the time read “10:49AM.” Cheers! :-D
I spent two more days in Golden Bay with a fellow named John who, if I think really, really, really hard, I can remember playing on my mom and dad's softball team back in the 90's. John and his partner Brian were most hospitable, and I very much enjoyed my time with them!
Hitching back to Nelson, I had the good fortune of meeting Patrick, who is best described by his very own words: “an awesome bloke.” When Patrick found out that I didn't yet have a place to stay in Nelson, he offered to let me crash at his place for as long as I wished. As a fellow world backpacker, Patrick was happy to pay-it-forward for all the times he'd been helped out during his travels. And, I was delighted to be on the receiving end of his generous offer! Patrick was on his way back to Golden Bay that afternoon, meaning that I had the house all to myself. And, with only a 10 minute walk to the Tahuna Beach, I was happy as a clam! Two thumbs up for cool people.
I've been in Nelson for a week now and enjoying the benefits of a living in the eco-friendly New Zealand city. Nelson has a lovely city center with heaps of cool shops, coffee houses, and even a cathedral smack dab in the middle. Thus, I've been enjoying a relaxing few days of beach bumming in Tahuna, window shopping, lunching at the local eateries, and strolling the Saturday market with a paper bag full of fresh orchard cherries. I reunited with a Taupo friend of mine, Ivonne, and we've been keeping ourselves entertained by the Busker Street Festival, watching a French man on stilts puppeteer Pandora the human (and female) version of Pinocchio. We also attended the International Kai(*1) Festival which was full of enticing smells from food stands selling international specialties. Here, we participated in a Maori Hui(*2) welcoming us to the Nelson Marae(*3). It was beautifully done with speeches in Maori by the elders and ending with a Hungi(*4). So, if when I next see you, I grasp your hand and pull you in close in order to touch our foreheads and noses, don't be alarmed - you've just experienced a heart warming Hungi from me to you.
Learn a bit of Maori:
(*1) Kai - Maori for “food”
(*2) Hui - a Maori welcoming ceremony
(*3) Marea - a Maori meeting place
(*4) Hungi - a Maori greeting
Thursday, January 27
Feeling Foxy
With altogether pleasant memories of Wanaka, I made my way farther up the West Coast to the small town of Fox Glacier – properly named cause, well, there's this really big glacier there. After settling in at the Inn, I took an evening stroll to Lake Matheson, a picturesque spot to view the mountain range that tucks in the wee Fox Glacier. The rippled mirror view from the shimmering lake only heightened my anticipation for the full-day glacier hike I was booked on for the following morning.
I arrived at Fox Glacier Guiding (FGG) promptly at 9:10am and was pointed in the direction of the Boot Room where I met my enthusiastic guide Ruth. Ruth, by both appearance and personality, reminded me of Ms. Frizzle from the Magic School Bus – a springy, ginger-haired lady with an adventurous spirit! With my rented boots snuggly laced and my backpack packed with lunch, water, a rain jacket, hat, mittens, and, of course, my trusty camera, I was eager to hit the ice!
After about an hour of steep hiking through native bush, with a break at Kodak Point to photograph the impressive terminal face of Fox Glacier, we took a moment to secure our cramp-ons to the soles of our boots – a necessary addition for the next four hours of tramping on the glacier.
Now, prior to our arrival that morning, a crew from FGG had already hacked through the icy mass to carve out steps for the tour groups of the day – a high-energy task that needs doing every single morning to ensure safe and easy access to the upper parts of the glacier. With our wooden walking poles in hand as an extra leg for balance, we excitedly tromped our way up and over the ancient ice in single file. Throughout the hike, Ruth skillfully helped us sidestep small cracks and bigger crevasses that slowly (and I mean very, very, very slowly) are created as the 11 kilometer long ice flow inches forward, like a narcoleptic snail.
Some of these crevasses are actually big enough to squeeze through as we learned by taking a drippy detour through two giant cracks in the glacier ice. After lunch (and a numb bum from sitting on the ice too long), Ruth discovered a small, circular cave whose smooth sides were tinged with cool blue ice – the kind of blue that looks as though the sky has been trapped behind a transparent glass panel. The constant rain of melting ice and the super slippery floor didn't keep any of us from ducking in and exploring the interior of the cave. It was cool as, bro!
At our highest point in the hike, we had an unobstructed view of what I dubbed, “The Foxy Niagara.” The glacier river above fed the enormous waterfall whose icy and jagged streams stood frozen in time – as if Medusa and her writhing head of slithering snakes had decided to pay a visit.
As we made our way back down the glacier, I quietly contemplated the fact that I had just spent the last 4 hours crunching in and out, up, over, and through something that dates back 15,000 to 20,000 years ago! I mean, that's pretty remarkable, eh? And I thought being 24 was old...*
The next day, I traveled further up the coast to the sea-side town of Punakaiki where I hiked the Pororari River Track - a beautiful nature trail that follows the base of a rugged limestone gorge. I felt like I was in the greenhouse of the Minnesota Zoo. It smelt of sticky heat and was pungently sweet, the massive gray boulders had fallen into the river just so, and the insect/bird tape recording was being blasted much too loudly to the point where I could have sworn there was a symphony of cicadas perched right on my shoulder. Needless to say, I'll take the screech of the cicada over the bite of a sandfly any day.
To complete my afternoon hike, I visited the infamous Pancake Rocks and Blow Holes which is what Punakaiki is best known for. With stunning views of the turbulent sea, the Pancake Rocks are quite a site to see! I should have thought to bring along my maple syrup, as these stacks of irregularly shaped “pancakes” look almost good enough to lay out your red-checkered tablecloth and shout “Time for breakfast!” Although they're not really edible (duh...), the sea is slowly but surely eating away at the layered rocky towers. Sheesh, is anyone else hungry??
* Nah, I'm only kiddin' ;-)
I arrived at Fox Glacier Guiding (FGG) promptly at 9:10am and was pointed in the direction of the Boot Room where I met my enthusiastic guide Ruth. Ruth, by both appearance and personality, reminded me of Ms. Frizzle from the Magic School Bus – a springy, ginger-haired lady with an adventurous spirit! With my rented boots snuggly laced and my backpack packed with lunch, water, a rain jacket, hat, mittens, and, of course, my trusty camera, I was eager to hit the ice!
After about an hour of steep hiking through native bush, with a break at Kodak Point to photograph the impressive terminal face of Fox Glacier, we took a moment to secure our cramp-ons to the soles of our boots – a necessary addition for the next four hours of tramping on the glacier.
Now, prior to our arrival that morning, a crew from FGG had already hacked through the icy mass to carve out steps for the tour groups of the day – a high-energy task that needs doing every single morning to ensure safe and easy access to the upper parts of the glacier. With our wooden walking poles in hand as an extra leg for balance, we excitedly tromped our way up and over the ancient ice in single file. Throughout the hike, Ruth skillfully helped us sidestep small cracks and bigger crevasses that slowly (and I mean very, very, very slowly) are created as the 11 kilometer long ice flow inches forward, like a narcoleptic snail.
Some of these crevasses are actually big enough to squeeze through as we learned by taking a drippy detour through two giant cracks in the glacier ice. After lunch (and a numb bum from sitting on the ice too long), Ruth discovered a small, circular cave whose smooth sides were tinged with cool blue ice – the kind of blue that looks as though the sky has been trapped behind a transparent glass panel. The constant rain of melting ice and the super slippery floor didn't keep any of us from ducking in and exploring the interior of the cave. It was cool as, bro!
At our highest point in the hike, we had an unobstructed view of what I dubbed, “The Foxy Niagara.” The glacier river above fed the enormous waterfall whose icy and jagged streams stood frozen in time – as if Medusa and her writhing head of slithering snakes had decided to pay a visit.
As we made our way back down the glacier, I quietly contemplated the fact that I had just spent the last 4 hours crunching in and out, up, over, and through something that dates back 15,000 to 20,000 years ago! I mean, that's pretty remarkable, eh? And I thought being 24 was old...*
The next day, I traveled further up the coast to the sea-side town of Punakaiki where I hiked the Pororari River Track - a beautiful nature trail that follows the base of a rugged limestone gorge. I felt like I was in the greenhouse of the Minnesota Zoo. It smelt of sticky heat and was pungently sweet, the massive gray boulders had fallen into the river just so, and the insect/bird tape recording was being blasted much too loudly to the point where I could have sworn there was a symphony of cicadas perched right on my shoulder. Needless to say, I'll take the screech of the cicada over the bite of a sandfly any day.
To complete my afternoon hike, I visited the infamous Pancake Rocks and Blow Holes which is what Punakaiki is best known for. With stunning views of the turbulent sea, the Pancake Rocks are quite a site to see! I should have thought to bring along my maple syrup, as these stacks of irregularly shaped “pancakes” look almost good enough to lay out your red-checkered tablecloth and shout “Time for breakfast!” Although they're not really edible (duh...), the sea is slowly but surely eating away at the layered rocky towers. Sheesh, is anyone else hungry??
* Nah, I'm only kiddin' ;-)
Sunday, January 23
A Barefoot Birthday
After leaving the comforts of Milford, I arrived in the lakeside town of Wanaka – a place where you can actually order a veggie burger named after the famous U.S. Country singer Shania Twain. Who'da thunk? But, besides the availability of celebrity burgers, Wanaka boasts some great hikes, a one-of-a-kind cinema, and the mind-trippy Puzzling World! With all these claims to fame, it's no wonder I found myself staying an extra week – it's a big kids playground!
I had a gig working for accommodation at Wanaka Bakpaka which meant that I got the privilege to live in the “Do Duck Inn” staff room. However, within the first couple days, my roomies and I were wishing it was named the “DoN'T Duck Inn” as new guests often mistook our small, hobbit-sized door for the hostel reception. Needless to say, I didn't spend much time in DDI since the weather outside was summery gorgeousness, and I spent my mornings and afternoons wriggling my barefeet in the soft, green grass, petting the hostel's stray kitty Food, or reading my newest romance novel next to the town's stoney (and sometimes rather windy) lakeside beach. Summer was here!!! :-D
During my two week stay in Wanaka, I couldn't seem to find enough time in a day! On day one, I borrowed the purple bike and joined my friends Ricarda and Hannah on a cycle around Lake Wanaka with a stop midway for a breath-stealing dip in it's icy blue waters. The next day, I met up with Hannah and her housemate Nikki for a morning tramp up the Rocky Mountain with rewarding views of Wanaka, Mt. Aspiring, and Shania Twain's ever-expanding acreage of NZ soil.
With all the exercise friendly activities to do in Wanaka, it came as no surprise that the town just happened to be hosting one of the world's top six Iron Man competitions that weekend – the Wanaka Challenge. Two days before the big race, my roommate Steffi and I got to hang out with one of the athletes! Jonathon Simpson – Simo for short – a 33 time Iron Man Tri-athlete! Holy WOW! Jonathon offered to take Steffi and I to Arrowtown for the day where we window shopped around the quaint, historical gold-mining town. The highlight of the day was coming across a few adorable, young entrepreneurs selling fresh, organic plums from their roadside stand. “2 for 10 cents, 4 for 20 cents, 6 for 30 cents” read their colorful, handmade sign. I couldn't help myself – I bought a whole dollars worth. Their cuteness made them irresistible salesmen!
Instead of sleeping in on Saturday morning, myself, along with three of my Bakpaka mates, were up bright and early to cheer on the Iron Man participants! Although it was early, the whole town was buzzing with excitement and pulsing with secondhand adrenaline from the athletes who were currently swimming 3.8 kilometers in windy weather and choppy lake conditions. We cheered our hearts out for each swimmer emerging from the unwelcoming lake and gave extra whoops and hollers to Jonathon when we finally spotted him! We rushed over to the bike transition area and cheered again as he zoomed by and gave us the thumbs up. Only a 180 km cycle and a full marathon to go...God speed Simo! (*It wasn't until the next day that we saw Jonathon again. He completed the race in 17 hours and 15 minutes, crossing the finish line 15 minutes before the cut off time! Bravo!*)
On the only rainy day I had in Wanaka, a group of us went to check out Puzzling World, a place filled to the brim with mind-playing illusions, a disorientatingly (if that's not in the dictionary, it should be...) tilting room, the most photographed toilets in NZ, and a room full of puzzles! For a rainy afternoon, this is both big and little kid paradise.
Another must-do of Wanaka is the world-famous Paradiso cinema known for their fresh-baked, chewy cookies at intermission and theater seats that include a variety of comfy couches and even a bright yellow car! Not having yet seen the latest Harry Potter movie, my Canadian friend Laura joined me for nearly three hours of teenagers romancing and spell casting – I thought the movie was wicked! :-)
Wanaka, with it's quiet, lakeside charm, was also where I decided to celebrate my 24th birthday. I woke up on Friday morning, only to enter the kitchen to a tray full of “Americans” (Yeah, there's actually a cookie named after us! How did I not know this??) alight with 24 glowing birthday candles. Cheers to Ricarda for awesome birthday breakfast cookies! I spent my first EVER summer birthday doing what I've never been able to do before – lounge in the warm sun, drink a few brews, and be barefoot. Ahhh - being 24 never felt so good.
I had a gig working for accommodation at Wanaka Bakpaka which meant that I got the privilege to live in the “Do Duck Inn” staff room. However, within the first couple days, my roomies and I were wishing it was named the “DoN'T Duck Inn” as new guests often mistook our small, hobbit-sized door for the hostel reception. Needless to say, I didn't spend much time in DDI since the weather outside was summery gorgeousness, and I spent my mornings and afternoons wriggling my barefeet in the soft, green grass, petting the hostel's stray kitty Food, or reading my newest romance novel next to the town's stoney (and sometimes rather windy) lakeside beach. Summer was here!!! :-D
During my two week stay in Wanaka, I couldn't seem to find enough time in a day! On day one, I borrowed the purple bike and joined my friends Ricarda and Hannah on a cycle around Lake Wanaka with a stop midway for a breath-stealing dip in it's icy blue waters. The next day, I met up with Hannah and her housemate Nikki for a morning tramp up the Rocky Mountain with rewarding views of Wanaka, Mt. Aspiring, and Shania Twain's ever-expanding acreage of NZ soil.
With all the exercise friendly activities to do in Wanaka, it came as no surprise that the town just happened to be hosting one of the world's top six Iron Man competitions that weekend – the Wanaka Challenge. Two days before the big race, my roommate Steffi and I got to hang out with one of the athletes! Jonathon Simpson – Simo for short – a 33 time Iron Man Tri-athlete! Holy WOW! Jonathon offered to take Steffi and I to Arrowtown for the day where we window shopped around the quaint, historical gold-mining town. The highlight of the day was coming across a few adorable, young entrepreneurs selling fresh, organic plums from their roadside stand. “2 for 10 cents, 4 for 20 cents, 6 for 30 cents” read their colorful, handmade sign. I couldn't help myself – I bought a whole dollars worth. Their cuteness made them irresistible salesmen!
Instead of sleeping in on Saturday morning, myself, along with three of my Bakpaka mates, were up bright and early to cheer on the Iron Man participants! Although it was early, the whole town was buzzing with excitement and pulsing with secondhand adrenaline from the athletes who were currently swimming 3.8 kilometers in windy weather and choppy lake conditions. We cheered our hearts out for each swimmer emerging from the unwelcoming lake and gave extra whoops and hollers to Jonathon when we finally spotted him! We rushed over to the bike transition area and cheered again as he zoomed by and gave us the thumbs up. Only a 180 km cycle and a full marathon to go...God speed Simo! (*It wasn't until the next day that we saw Jonathon again. He completed the race in 17 hours and 15 minutes, crossing the finish line 15 minutes before the cut off time! Bravo!*)
On the only rainy day I had in Wanaka, a group of us went to check out Puzzling World, a place filled to the brim with mind-playing illusions, a disorientatingly (if that's not in the dictionary, it should be...) tilting room, the most photographed toilets in NZ, and a room full of puzzles! For a rainy afternoon, this is both big and little kid paradise.
Another must-do of Wanaka is the world-famous Paradiso cinema known for their fresh-baked, chewy cookies at intermission and theater seats that include a variety of comfy couches and even a bright yellow car! Not having yet seen the latest Harry Potter movie, my Canadian friend Laura joined me for nearly three hours of teenagers romancing and spell casting – I thought the movie was wicked! :-)
Wanaka, with it's quiet, lakeside charm, was also where I decided to celebrate my 24th birthday. I woke up on Friday morning, only to enter the kitchen to a tray full of “Americans” (Yeah, there's actually a cookie named after us! How did I not know this??) alight with 24 glowing birthday candles. Cheers to Ricarda for awesome birthday breakfast cookies! I spent my first EVER summer birthday doing what I've never been able to do before – lounge in the warm sun, drink a few brews, and be barefoot. Ahhh - being 24 never felt so good.
Monday, January 10
My Milford Must Do's
After the holly, jollyness of Christmas and a very pub-friendly New Years, I was becoming increasingly more aware that my time in Milford was, in effect, beginning to evaporate. This fact was both alarming (How could I possibly leave such a wonderful place??) and thrilling (Alrighty! Where to next?!). But, I had some “Milford Must Dos” to check off my list before my final farewell. And, I had less than two weeks to do it. Ready, set, CHECK!
Must Do #1: Land on Big Bay
On New Years Eve day, I got a unique opportunity to take a scenic flight to Big Bay – an area of the Fiordland that is seen by very few people, mostly a handful of hikers or hunters, who have completed the Hollyford Track and request an airplane pick up from the Milford pilots. On this particular occasion, I accompanied Jenni, the Air Fiordland pilot, on a bumpy ride over the Milford Sound, along the West Coast, and ending with a surprisingly smooth beach landing on Big Bay where we picked up two stinky hunters and their shot of the week. Seeing the Fiordland from above is such a cool way to experience this area. I stared out the window in awe at the miles and miles of layered, green mountains that seemed to merge into the gray and foggy horizon. Incredible.
Must Do #2: Take a Late-Night Stroll
When I first arrived in Milford, my friend Elodie told me: “If you only do one thing in Milford while you're here, walk home from the pub at night. It's so worth it. You'll see why.” Well, I was at the pub, it was after midnight, and it was time to be getting back. So, I recruited my Alaskan friend Crystal to join me on my after dark stroll back to the Lodge. I suppose I should also mention that on this very night, the rain goddess had decided to take a particularly long shower with no regard whatsoever for water conservation. In other words, it was pissing down. Crystal and I couldn't have been more thrilled! Within minutes we were drenched to the bone (my black rubbish bag apparently not being a suitable alternative for a rain jacket...). It was so dark that I couldn't even see Crystal walking beside me, much less attempt to avoid the potholes filled to the brim with rainwater. But the coolest thing, by far, were the glowworms. It was as though the stars had broken loose and rolled down the mountainside, only to get stuck in and amongst the bush. With all the rain we'd been getting, the little buggers were extra hungry and they glowed with all their might – like teeny-tiny lanterns that did squat-shit for lighting the way. Awfully pretty though :-)
Must Do #3: Find the Secret Rock Pools
I give full credit to my friend Michelle for bringing me to this awesome place!! For two afternoons in a row, a small group of us 'locals' took a drive up to the Rock Pools (*secret location not disclosed*). Here, we spent hours basking beneath a cloudless sky on sun-warmed rocks with a glittering, waterfall fed pool just beside us for a easy cool-down. It was January and feeling like summer. Freakin' awesome!!
Must Do #4: Eat Some Glacier
With some serious perfect timing and a stroke of good luck, I somehow found myself strapped into the backseat of a helicopter, flying over the Fiords, and landing lightly on a Lord-knows-how-old glacier. If there is ever a good time to use the word “supercalifragilisticexpialidocious” this would be it! I mean, holy WOW!! I couldn't have kept the smile off my face if my life depended on it. To top it all off, I was wearing a sundress over my swimsuit with sandals on my feet. On a GLACIER! It could easily have been the excitement keeping me warm, but I didn't feel chilled in the slightest! I skipped carefully across the wet snow, watching out for crevices, crevasses, and other things I could potentially fall into. Then, I stole something. I stole a brilliant idea from my friend Crystal. Scooping up a handful of glacier, I took one glance (nope, not yellow!) and took a big bite. Mmm, ancient glacier ice! It's a delicacy here in NZ, don't cha know?
As hard hard as it was to say goodbye to my fellow Milfordonians, I was excited be on my way and explore the West Coast of the South Island for my last month in New Zealand! After a deep clean of Rapid Room #11 and lots of warm hugs from my wonderful, worldly friends, I hopped a plane to Queenstown. I quietly waved goodbye to Mitre Peak, Lady Bowen, and the hundreds of teeny tiny camper vans from my prime seat in the sky. A view for the perfect Milford farewell.
Must Do #1: Land on Big Bay
On New Years Eve day, I got a unique opportunity to take a scenic flight to Big Bay – an area of the Fiordland that is seen by very few people, mostly a handful of hikers or hunters, who have completed the Hollyford Track and request an airplane pick up from the Milford pilots. On this particular occasion, I accompanied Jenni, the Air Fiordland pilot, on a bumpy ride over the Milford Sound, along the West Coast, and ending with a surprisingly smooth beach landing on Big Bay where we picked up two stinky hunters and their shot of the week. Seeing the Fiordland from above is such a cool way to experience this area. I stared out the window in awe at the miles and miles of layered, green mountains that seemed to merge into the gray and foggy horizon. Incredible.
Must Do #2: Take a Late-Night Stroll
When I first arrived in Milford, my friend Elodie told me: “If you only do one thing in Milford while you're here, walk home from the pub at night. It's so worth it. You'll see why.” Well, I was at the pub, it was after midnight, and it was time to be getting back. So, I recruited my Alaskan friend Crystal to join me on my after dark stroll back to the Lodge. I suppose I should also mention that on this very night, the rain goddess had decided to take a particularly long shower with no regard whatsoever for water conservation. In other words, it was pissing down. Crystal and I couldn't have been more thrilled! Within minutes we were drenched to the bone (my black rubbish bag apparently not being a suitable alternative for a rain jacket...). It was so dark that I couldn't even see Crystal walking beside me, much less attempt to avoid the potholes filled to the brim with rainwater. But the coolest thing, by far, were the glowworms. It was as though the stars had broken loose and rolled down the mountainside, only to get stuck in and amongst the bush. With all the rain we'd been getting, the little buggers were extra hungry and they glowed with all their might – like teeny-tiny lanterns that did squat-shit for lighting the way. Awfully pretty though :-)
Must Do #3: Find the Secret Rock Pools
I give full credit to my friend Michelle for bringing me to this awesome place!! For two afternoons in a row, a small group of us 'locals' took a drive up to the Rock Pools (*secret location not disclosed*). Here, we spent hours basking beneath a cloudless sky on sun-warmed rocks with a glittering, waterfall fed pool just beside us for a easy cool-down. It was January and feeling like summer. Freakin' awesome!!
Must Do #4: Eat Some Glacier
With some serious perfect timing and a stroke of good luck, I somehow found myself strapped into the backseat of a helicopter, flying over the Fiords, and landing lightly on a Lord-knows-how-old glacier. If there is ever a good time to use the word “supercalifragilisticexpialidocious” this would be it! I mean, holy WOW!! I couldn't have kept the smile off my face if my life depended on it. To top it all off, I was wearing a sundress over my swimsuit with sandals on my feet. On a GLACIER! It could easily have been the excitement keeping me warm, but I didn't feel chilled in the slightest! I skipped carefully across the wet snow, watching out for crevices, crevasses, and other things I could potentially fall into. Then, I stole something. I stole a brilliant idea from my friend Crystal. Scooping up a handful of glacier, I took one glance (nope, not yellow!) and took a big bite. Mmm, ancient glacier ice! It's a delicacy here in NZ, don't cha know?
As hard hard as it was to say goodbye to my fellow Milfordonians, I was excited be on my way and explore the West Coast of the South Island for my last month in New Zealand! After a deep clean of Rapid Room #11 and lots of warm hugs from my wonderful, worldly friends, I hopped a plane to Queenstown. I quietly waved goodbye to Mitre Peak, Lady Bowen, and the hundreds of teeny tiny camper vans from my prime seat in the sky. A view for the perfect Milford farewell.
Friday, December 24
A Christmas Wonderland
Set on upholding my own personal holiday tradition, I started singing along to Christmas music on my iPod the very day after Thanksgiving. Without my usual Christmas triggers (snowflakes, snowmen, school cancellations, and Christmas decorating), I was bound and determined to get into the Christmas spirit! (And secretly hoping, wishing, and praying for snow!)
In early December, the Christmas trees went up in the Lodge lounge and in the Saigon staff quarters. About a week later, a package arrived for me from Mom, Dad, and Cate which I dutifully placed under the tree, resisting with all my might the “Oh just open it!!” remarks from my merry co-workers. *sigh*
Despite the glowing tree lights, presents, and humming hundreds of Christmas carols, it still wasn't feeling like Christmas. But, there was still time.
In mid-December, the Milford pub hosted a themed Christmas party for the Lodge staff. But, instead of cotton-topped Santa hats, pointy elf ears, and a room filled with red and green, the Milford Lodge gang arrived as a hodge-podge of interesting creatures. Our “Christmas” theme? Futuristic! We had in attendance Beer-Bot the Robot, Avatar, Wilson the Extra Head, Future Asian, and the Bearded Milford Man – each an interpretation of what we thought the “future” might look like. Oh, it was a merry night alright! Nothing like the “Bite My Box” game to get the crowd all Holly and Jolly! :-D
A few days later, for a bit o' Christmas fun (and as a gift to the person I was Secret Santa for), I rewrote the lyrics to “The 12 Days of Christmas” and turned it into “The Milford 12 Days of Christmas.” Go on, sing along ;-)
On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me,
12 guests a-scratchin'
11 waterfalls fallin'
10 boats a cruisin'
9 kayaks paddlin'
8 dolphins swimmin'
7 trampers stinkin'
6 seals layin'
5 BILLION SANDFLIES!!
4 chalet views
3 woofers
2 cheeky keas
And a Tui in a beech tree!
The Christmas spirit was finally starting to seep in! I whipped up a batch of “Reindeer Poop Cookies” (my favorite chocolatey, peanut buttery, oatmealy plops of No-bake goodness!) and wrote a sweet little Christmas note to accompany them:
Santa's reindeer came for a visit and shit on the roof... Help Yourself! ~ Anna
The entire batch had disappeared by the next day. What can I say? It's some good shit!
Now, it was less than a week till Christmas! And apparently in Milford, that means weather like you wouldn't believe. As I chilled out in the staff lounge, belting out Christmas tunes with Rosie O'Donnell, a needle and thread in hand, repairing a few holes in my travel-worn clothes, I was simultaneously keeping my fingers tightly crossed in hopes that the whole of Milford wouldn't get swept away by the torrential downpour of rain that had raised the river substantially in the last few hours. Not to mention, the entire foundation of Saigon was moaning LOUDLY in protest at the powerful wind, like the class nerd boldly refusing to give up his lunch money to the school bully. In the end, I couldn't help myself. I dawned my Santa hat, invited along my friend Crystal, and the two of us went bounding happily through the parking lot jumping smack-dab in the center of every puddle we could see! Merry *SPLASH!* Christmas!!
The heavy rain and brutal wind didn't end there. I think Mother Nature and Old Man Milford had gotten bored of quiet romantic picnics and decided to go out for a crazy night of dancing and drinking at the hippest dance club. The morning must have brought with it a wicked hangover as Milford suffered nearly 10 power outages and two road closings (because of a tree slide road block) over the next few days. Milford was getting exciting!! Not only exciting, but incredibly, stupendously, and awesomely beautiful. Just this week, I've witnessed some of the most stunning scenes of Milford that I have seen since I arrived here. The mountains became vertically striped with hundreds of white, flowy, watery ribbons, some splitting at the middle, like the silky ends of a graduation tassel. And all around, the clouds shimmered and hovered, gently caressing and protecting the fragile greenery that clung so desperately to the plunging mountain face.
A Christmas Wonderland.
And, in the midst of this summer storm, I sit, cozy and dry, listening, writing, sipping Hot Peppermint Chocolate, and simply grinning at the dangerously beautiful nature that surrounds me this Christmas. I have much to be thankful for as I reminisce about all that I've seen and done in 2010. It's been one hell of a year, and I am so happy to be able to share it with you. Family, friends, and loved ones are what give meaning to the Christmas season. You are all in my thoughts as I count my blessing of the old year to make ready for the new.
Happy and content, I look over my shoulder to glance out the window again at the magical view of the Fiordland. My eyes widen and my grin broadens – a fresh snow dusted mountain top. Wishes do come true! It looks like it's going to be a white Christmas after all.
May your days be merry and bright, and may all your Christmases be white.
Peace and Love, Anna
In early December, the Christmas trees went up in the Lodge lounge and in the Saigon staff quarters. About a week later, a package arrived for me from Mom, Dad, and Cate which I dutifully placed under the tree, resisting with all my might the “Oh just open it!!” remarks from my merry co-workers. *sigh*
Despite the glowing tree lights, presents, and humming hundreds of Christmas carols, it still wasn't feeling like Christmas. But, there was still time.
In mid-December, the Milford pub hosted a themed Christmas party for the Lodge staff. But, instead of cotton-topped Santa hats, pointy elf ears, and a room filled with red and green, the Milford Lodge gang arrived as a hodge-podge of interesting creatures. Our “Christmas” theme? Futuristic! We had in attendance Beer-Bot the Robot, Avatar, Wilson the Extra Head, Future Asian, and the Bearded Milford Man – each an interpretation of what we thought the “future” might look like. Oh, it was a merry night alright! Nothing like the “Bite My Box” game to get the crowd all Holly and Jolly! :-D
A few days later, for a bit o' Christmas fun (and as a gift to the person I was Secret Santa for), I rewrote the lyrics to “The 12 Days of Christmas” and turned it into “The Milford 12 Days of Christmas.” Go on, sing along ;-)
On the twelfth day of Christmas, my true love gave to me,
12 guests a-scratchin'
11 waterfalls fallin'
10 boats a cruisin'
9 kayaks paddlin'
8 dolphins swimmin'
7 trampers stinkin'
6 seals layin'
5 BILLION SANDFLIES!!
4 chalet views
3 woofers
2 cheeky keas
And a Tui in a beech tree!
The Christmas spirit was finally starting to seep in! I whipped up a batch of “Reindeer Poop Cookies” (my favorite chocolatey, peanut buttery, oatmealy plops of No-bake goodness!) and wrote a sweet little Christmas note to accompany them:
Santa's reindeer came for a visit and shit on the roof... Help Yourself! ~ Anna
The entire batch had disappeared by the next day. What can I say? It's some good shit!
Now, it was less than a week till Christmas! And apparently in Milford, that means weather like you wouldn't believe. As I chilled out in the staff lounge, belting out Christmas tunes with Rosie O'Donnell, a needle and thread in hand, repairing a few holes in my travel-worn clothes, I was simultaneously keeping my fingers tightly crossed in hopes that the whole of Milford wouldn't get swept away by the torrential downpour of rain that had raised the river substantially in the last few hours. Not to mention, the entire foundation of Saigon was moaning LOUDLY in protest at the powerful wind, like the class nerd boldly refusing to give up his lunch money to the school bully. In the end, I couldn't help myself. I dawned my Santa hat, invited along my friend Crystal, and the two of us went bounding happily through the parking lot jumping smack-dab in the center of every puddle we could see! Merry *SPLASH!* Christmas!!
The heavy rain and brutal wind didn't end there. I think Mother Nature and Old Man Milford had gotten bored of quiet romantic picnics and decided to go out for a crazy night of dancing and drinking at the hippest dance club. The morning must have brought with it a wicked hangover as Milford suffered nearly 10 power outages and two road closings (because of a tree slide road block) over the next few days. Milford was getting exciting!! Not only exciting, but incredibly, stupendously, and awesomely beautiful. Just this week, I've witnessed some of the most stunning scenes of Milford that I have seen since I arrived here. The mountains became vertically striped with hundreds of white, flowy, watery ribbons, some splitting at the middle, like the silky ends of a graduation tassel. And all around, the clouds shimmered and hovered, gently caressing and protecting the fragile greenery that clung so desperately to the plunging mountain face.
A Christmas Wonderland.
And, in the midst of this summer storm, I sit, cozy and dry, listening, writing, sipping Hot Peppermint Chocolate, and simply grinning at the dangerously beautiful nature that surrounds me this Christmas. I have much to be thankful for as I reminisce about all that I've seen and done in 2010. It's been one hell of a year, and I am so happy to be able to share it with you. Family, friends, and loved ones are what give meaning to the Christmas season. You are all in my thoughts as I count my blessing of the old year to make ready for the new.
Happy and content, I look over my shoulder to glance out the window again at the magical view of the Fiordland. My eyes widen and my grin broadens – a fresh snow dusted mountain top. Wishes do come true! It looks like it's going to be a white Christmas after all.
May your days be merry and bright, and may all your Christmases be white.
Peace and Love, Anna
Saturday, December 4
Underground Astronomy & A Wilderness Experience
With four days off from work at the Milford Lodge, I bussed to Te Anau for a change of scenery and further exploration of this beautiful part of the country. One of the Te Anau's touristy hot spots are the Glowworm Caves, located across Lake Te Anau. So, after a sunny and windy boat cruise across the lake, I reached the “Cavern” along with 50 or so other glowworm goers. As we sipped tea and coffee, we learned that unlike fireflies which glow to attract a mate, glowworms glow when they're hungry thus louring their unsuspecting insect prey into their dangling, beaded, and sticky fishing lines. Mmm, dinner's ready!
In groups of 10-12, we crouched low to shuffle our way under the cave entrance. Once inside, my ears were filled with the roar of rushing water, and my group made its way through the damp, cavernous hollows of the cave, seeing a few bluish pinpricks of light above and using the guide's torch to illuminate a clump of glowworm fishing lines that clung delicately to the overhanging rock. We paused again to watch the mad rush of water cascade over a U-shaped curve of rock above and falling to fill the swirling pool below which fed the underground river. At the end of the walkway, my group settled into a small boat and the lights went out leaving us in total and utter darkness. I couldn't see the outline of my fingers less than an inch from my face! The boat began to glide through the blackness, jolting it's passengers when it occasionally bumped the sides of the cave. The sound of the river was a distant hum, and everyone went unanimously silent in the stillness of the cave. With necks craned back, patches of tiny white lights began to pierce the blackness, like bright stars on a moonless night. I could have sworn I spotted the Big Dipper in this underground nighttime sky.
Experiencing the Glowworm Caves was an unexpected treat during my four day weekend. What I did have planned, however, was an entirely new adventure – a two day sea kayaking and camping trip in the Doubtful Sound, another part of the Fiordland's wondrous National Park. The Doubtful Sound isn't as easily accessible as the Milford Sound, thus making it much more remote and, well, wildernessy! My sea kayaking team was made up Matt and Fi, our two super guides from Fiordland Wilderness Experiences, Larry and Pam, a 60-something year old couple from North Carolina, and Jens, a photo-journalist from Germany who was “here on business.”
As we came over the highest point of the Wilmot Pass between Lake Manapouri and the Doubtful Sound, we got the chance to witness a rare view of the fiords. From high above, we could see a low-hanging cloud that blanketed the entire floor of the fiord, tucking in the ribbon of blue water from view. You could just imagine what the powerful glacier looked like thousands of years ago carving its way through the land. It was a pretty spectacular sight!
It was from Deep Cove that we set off in our sea kayaks, basking in the warmth of the sun, mouths gaping at the magnificent natural surroundings of the towering mountains. During the day, we paddled up close to the mountain sides, listened to funny bird calls, took time out for lunch and a swim (BRRR!!!), heard stories about Maori folklore, and learned historical and natural facts about the area from our knowledgeable guides. Near the end of our day's paddle we decided to “sail” our kayaks! To do so, we rafted up (all three kayaks coming together side by side) and held high a sturdy piece of cloth using two paddles from the back and two hands from the front. Then, it was just a matter of holding on tight and going with the wind! The rest of the afternoon hours were spent drinking in the intoxicating beauty of the Doubtful Sound wilderness and getting quite tipsy indeed! Then, it was time to set up camp for the night with our thousands upon millions of ungracious neighbors – the Sandflies.
Setting up tents and unloading gear was frequently interrupted by slapping various body parts, waving arms vigorously in the air, and pausing every so often to spit out a relentless sandfly that cruised its jolly way in between parted lips. I couldn't believe how many there were! Thankfully, once everything was set up, the six of us zipped ourselves into a mesh tent where we relaxed for the evening with several glasses of sweet wine and a smörgåsbord of cheese, crackers, chips, and dip – safe and sound from the miserable swarms of those biting black buggers.
We ordered another picture perfect day for day two of our sea kayaking expedition. With a few more red and itchy welts to decorate our already suntoasted skin, we began our paddle back out of Hall Arm to Malaspina Reach along the quiet waters of morning, gliding underneath the dripping overhangs of untouched greenery and watching reflections of the sunlight dance along the lower cliffs. It was peace and serenity at its very best.
We sailed the remainder of the trip back into Deep Cove, and I went for a final swim in it's chilly waters – an icy blast of a way to end an incredible kayaking and camping excursion in the magnificent and magical Doubtful Sound.
In groups of 10-12, we crouched low to shuffle our way under the cave entrance. Once inside, my ears were filled with the roar of rushing water, and my group made its way through the damp, cavernous hollows of the cave, seeing a few bluish pinpricks of light above and using the guide's torch to illuminate a clump of glowworm fishing lines that clung delicately to the overhanging rock. We paused again to watch the mad rush of water cascade over a U-shaped curve of rock above and falling to fill the swirling pool below which fed the underground river. At the end of the walkway, my group settled into a small boat and the lights went out leaving us in total and utter darkness. I couldn't see the outline of my fingers less than an inch from my face! The boat began to glide through the blackness, jolting it's passengers when it occasionally bumped the sides of the cave. The sound of the river was a distant hum, and everyone went unanimously silent in the stillness of the cave. With necks craned back, patches of tiny white lights began to pierce the blackness, like bright stars on a moonless night. I could have sworn I spotted the Big Dipper in this underground nighttime sky.
Experiencing the Glowworm Caves was an unexpected treat during my four day weekend. What I did have planned, however, was an entirely new adventure – a two day sea kayaking and camping trip in the Doubtful Sound, another part of the Fiordland's wondrous National Park. The Doubtful Sound isn't as easily accessible as the Milford Sound, thus making it much more remote and, well, wildernessy! My sea kayaking team was made up Matt and Fi, our two super guides from Fiordland Wilderness Experiences, Larry and Pam, a 60-something year old couple from North Carolina, and Jens, a photo-journalist from Germany who was “here on business.”
As we came over the highest point of the Wilmot Pass between Lake Manapouri and the Doubtful Sound, we got the chance to witness a rare view of the fiords. From high above, we could see a low-hanging cloud that blanketed the entire floor of the fiord, tucking in the ribbon of blue water from view. You could just imagine what the powerful glacier looked like thousands of years ago carving its way through the land. It was a pretty spectacular sight!
It was from Deep Cove that we set off in our sea kayaks, basking in the warmth of the sun, mouths gaping at the magnificent natural surroundings of the towering mountains. During the day, we paddled up close to the mountain sides, listened to funny bird calls, took time out for lunch and a swim (BRRR!!!), heard stories about Maori folklore, and learned historical and natural facts about the area from our knowledgeable guides. Near the end of our day's paddle we decided to “sail” our kayaks! To do so, we rafted up (all three kayaks coming together side by side) and held high a sturdy piece of cloth using two paddles from the back and two hands from the front. Then, it was just a matter of holding on tight and going with the wind! The rest of the afternoon hours were spent drinking in the intoxicating beauty of the Doubtful Sound wilderness and getting quite tipsy indeed! Then, it was time to set up camp for the night with our thousands upon millions of ungracious neighbors – the Sandflies.
Setting up tents and unloading gear was frequently interrupted by slapping various body parts, waving arms vigorously in the air, and pausing every so often to spit out a relentless sandfly that cruised its jolly way in between parted lips. I couldn't believe how many there were! Thankfully, once everything was set up, the six of us zipped ourselves into a mesh tent where we relaxed for the evening with several glasses of sweet wine and a smörgåsbord of cheese, crackers, chips, and dip – safe and sound from the miserable swarms of those biting black buggers.
We ordered another picture perfect day for day two of our sea kayaking expedition. With a few more red and itchy welts to decorate our already suntoasted skin, we began our paddle back out of Hall Arm to Malaspina Reach along the quiet waters of morning, gliding underneath the dripping overhangs of untouched greenery and watching reflections of the sunlight dance along the lower cliffs. It was peace and serenity at its very best.
We sailed the remainder of the trip back into Deep Cove, and I went for a final swim in it's chilly waters – an icy blast of a way to end an incredible kayaking and camping excursion in the magnificent and magical Doubtful Sound.
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